Dont know how to address it? If a lot of water droplets form under the plastic then wait a bit. Luckily, you dont actually need to buy any type of special paint for cinder blocks, as any regular type of paint will work just fine! At this point it would be a good idea to spend a little extra and apply Dryloc. Hi, Thanks for this page. A good caulking will work well. 3 Common Causes (and How To Solve Them), Are Paint Rollers Reusable The Ultimate Guide, Why Is My Water Heater Smoking 5 Reasons + Fixes, Tankless Water Heater Keeps Tripping Breaker (Fixed), Water Heater Pilot Light Wont Stay Lit After Thermocouple Replacement, How Much Weight Will Particle Board Hold The Ultimate Guide. Thank you for the great article! Ive already pressure washed the walls with just water. An oil based general surface primer will be good, like Zinsser Coverstain or equivalent. Since the pool will cause moisture and possible water splashing on to the foundation blocks, I was going to add caulk to the area where the painted drywall meets the foundation block and where the foundation block meets the finished epoxy floor. #1 Etching isnt needed. I still need to paint the main 14 x 22 garage section. The walls are Ocala block.
Drywall mud might work to smooth the block, then prime and paint with the back-ground color. Go a head and use a good quality interior paint, sheen your choice.
I recommend paint most of the time. I get easily confused about anything, my understanding of what I hear or read is often inaccurate, but I persevere, dont want no potty, but do like others to be patient & I guess tolerable of me. The main considerations you need to think about are new and unpainted, condition of existing finish and type of concrete block. Im trying to paint an interior bathroom of an old house. Great article! For the other mentioned options; Prime the block then apply drywall compound to smooth it out. Youll need to really seal the block well or it will suck up the water from your paints making them dry much faster.
I was hoping to whitewash it with diluted paint for a more textured finish. Like so many others have said, I thank you for the great information youve provided and continue to provide, by answering questions 6 years since posting the article. The power washer can be used to remove loose paint from the block (be careful) but can do a lot of damage to wood. Is there a paint that would glue the peeling down where its easily pressure washed off and hold the paint where its not? Stripping shouldnt be necessary. I dont know if a bonding primer is needed, I would think not. A standard acrylic bonding primer should work well; Zinsser 123 or Insl-X Stix will work well. Im not sure if it has been painted since it was built. This finish can outlast normal paint 21. This is a two-person operation. Contact a contractor that has this equipment. Soda blasting might be a good option. The rest shouldnt need priming but you can test the original paint by rubbing the paint some alcohol, rubbing or denatured. The basement has never been painted before. What would you recommend? Thank you very much! Or both? Getting ready to repaint interior cinderblock walls that currently have a semi gloss finish. Damage to the cement foundation could happen if moisture is trapped in the walls. Make sure to use enough paint and work it well to fill these pores. Instead, you can just use a block filler primer that is specifically formulated for things such as cinder blocks. Now, you guessed it, happening again in more areas. This will help.
This is my very last question, I promise, with my fingers somewhat crossed. The block has never been painted so Ill go with the block fill primer. Will that work? do you think I could get away without back rolling it, if I applied 2 coats, back to back, by working in very small sections with my airless sprayer? For an existing block wall with peeling chipped paint, should I be concerned about trapping moisture in the block wall if I prime with acrylic block filler and elastomeric paint (seal)? The efflorescence will need some washing, white vinegar, no-rinse TSP and warm water will work for most deposits. If there is persistent moisture you should use a water blocking sealer that can take hydrostatic pressure before painting. It can be painted over with any paint you choose. We are building a privacy fence using cinder blocks for the posts. We washed, we peeled, we sealed, and we painted. The existing wall is painted, most likely with an acrylic paint as the paint chip is a regular Valspar paint. At this point paint proceeds as normal. Let me know if you think Holzer is far superior. One way to check if excess moisture exists is to take some plastic sheeting and tape, seal it to the wall. Ive already pressure washed w/just water, scraped with wire brush & scraper. I was about to paint my garage wall (which is below ground) but upon miving everything away from the wall there was some mold in certain areas. A good washing will save a lot of time later.
Regular wall paint can be used and any sheen, whatever you prefer. My plan after prepping is to wash the walls with non-rinse TSP, paint with Loxon and then finish with the exterior paint recently used to paint the rest of the house.
I have read on other websites block walls should breathe. I have a CBS home the home has settle and theres a few cracks is there a paint that can cover the settleing cracks without noticeing it. What type of paint would you recommend and what should I do to prepare the surface before doing so? Do you need to wait to paint a cinder block wall that has been core filled every 4 feet. I dont know if what is on the wall is a block sealant or plain old paint? For a dark finish color start with a tinted primer. Do I use semi gloss on cinder block walls? Thanks for responding! And The first step when preparing concrete block walls is pressure washing. You might even notice that most graffiti drawings are painted on cinder block walls with spray paints! Use a semi-gloss paint to help with the moisture. Is that a good plan or is that overkill? Make sure to clean the surface well, no dust or soot. I like brushing and rolling whenever possible to push the primer and paint into surface pores. Hi, Or are we stuck with trying to paint over the chipping red areas in grey? Depends on what the original paint is and the shape or condition of the original paint. I assume it has lead paint, but it seems very intact. The super white really helped lower electric bills in summer so thinking lighter color, not necessarily white again, just havent decided on paint brand, would like semi-gloss on exterior and high-gloss on doors/garage door. Caulking windows and doors is the same on a concrete block building as with caulking any interior or exterior surface. TSP, hot water and a scrub will be your best cleaning option. The stain will be soaked into the surface of the cinder block, to give it that permanent new color, but it will not affect the structural integrity of the cinder blocks in the slightest, so you can rest assured that no damage will be caused by staining your cinder blocks! How is the best way to prep for a new color coat? No caulking should be applied to loose paint, all loose must be removed before caulking.
100% acrylic paints are the standard now days and most likely all that is available at Lowes. You will encounter two types of block, smooth and split-face. If your home is older than this testing the existing paint is a good idea. I dont know their products but buy the best you can afford.
Paint peeling off caulking is a compatibility issue. Then apply a good quality paint.
(One of your posts suggested using a satin or semi gloss finish for easier cleaning.) I have problems with my memory, thought process, words, thinking, etc. I am thinking Zinsser bc of the availability/price. I have a cinder block basement built in 1991, and to avoid drywall wanted to paint and seal for moisture. Same goes for under the deck, a pain but if it is visible then it should be painted. The Behr paint is fine as long as there isnt water vapor in the block. Getting the pores sealed it very important with block walls. Finishes with a higher sheen, semi-gloss or satin, will be easier to clean and maintain. I have spent the last hour reading through these posts and have learned a lot from everyones posts and your comments. Overnight will work. If you know any stucco people you might want to ask for tips.
Thank you in advance. Hi i am about to paint the exterior of my block home I have pressure washed Im just wondering how long I need to wait until I can paint after pressure washing? Trapping water in concrete, block or otherwise, will degrade the walls over time causing all kinds of future damage. Prime the whole thing with an oil based primer, like Zinsser Cover Stain. Thank you. This would be a good idea if you add grout lines. Required fields are marked *. Most excellent thread. After hours hes hardly touched on the total job.
Cinder blocks are made out of concrete, and there are plenty of concrete stainers available in the market, so you will be able to choose from many different colors and brands, to achieve the best possible result in the end! Block-fill primer is apparently also taboo and other products. Many manufactures also produce an oil base formula for use over oil base finishes. I think there are only 2 bolts holding each post in place. We have just built a bessor block fence out front and back. Paint and primer, such as Loxon and Resilience, are above ground only. We are along a creek and in a flood zone and it will flood at some point. Im not familiar with Bondcrete but from what I read it should have sealed the pores and act like a block fill primer, neutralize the surface ph and ready it for the paint. Is Benjamin Moore Aura exterior a good option also? The walls were not plastered instead they were cement bagwashed then painted so the texture is rough. This will help stabilize the wall and keep the moisture from becoming a problem in the future. Use Drylok Masonry Waterproofer as a base for your final paint. Apply a thick even coat and immediately use the roller to push the primer and finish paint into the pores of the concrete block.
Thank you for all of your helpful information. I hope Im not too annoying & thanks again for your assistance.
My mind tells me to do it before b/c its better for it to be adhered to the cement around the window instead of having it stuck again to paint, b/c paint is not as tough a surface as cement. Next, paint 2 coats of satin Sherwin Williams acrylic paint amzn_assoc_search_bar = "true"; The bubbling is a bit perplexing; even cheap paint should go on without bubbling. Block and other masonry surfaces is exactly what it is designed for. What would you recommend in this scenario? But what type of paint do you use on cinder blocks? You can also apply a traditional portland stucco to the block. Oh and I have a graco sprayer with a 515 tip, will this work and should I back roll the primer and paint? I used Zinsser block filler on my bare basement blocks. This procedure works equally well on interior block surfaces.
But now when It gets wet the white streaks are coming out of the bricks how can we stop this.
Then, its all about making sure the cinder blocks are in good condition for painting, and about applying the necessary amount of layers of paint to achieve the smoothest finish possible.
The goal is to get a seal on the long term blocks so moisture does not make its way through and disturb the tenants offices with leaking. The Loxon does allow water vapor to pass through, so the wall will breath a little. I am preparing to install a resistance pool in the 3rd garage space and want the area to be as waterproof as possible. Let me think some more about your reply & maybe Ill understand more about what I need to do. New unpainted concrete block walls need to have all dirt and loose mortar removed prior to priming. I ended up getting water on the wall in some spots as a couple minutes later, the Greige paint had brown streaks in it. Do I need to prime the walls first? I have a 30 year old cinder block shop, outside painted white and the inside is unpainted. Son has a house built in the 1960s. I would love to use an airless paint sprayer too if I can find one that the primer will work with. Thanks for in advance for your advice! Ill power wash a day before to get the few weeks of grime off but may get additional dirt with the overnight rain which I would want to wash off. Do you have to prime cinder blocks before painting?
Want to know best process to get this one home repainted. Your email is never published nor shared. Water is getting in to the block from somewhere.
What is best to use on cinder block classroom walls? 
You want to seal the foundation from the outside if possible.
Is that true? spray paint in question is viable for concrete, painting and staining is that paint adds a thin, F5E1 Maytag Washer Error Code? Most primers can be tinted to a light gray. When I water my yard water leaks into my driveway through the cracks in the walls. With a vertical wall the paint/glaze mix or gel stain might want to sag. Patching only needed for major damage, the glue and tile will hide a lot. A primer might still be needed if the old paint isnt in good shape or there are many open pores. There isnt a primer that can penetrate through paint and glue it down, wish there was. The only difference with what I outlined is I prefer to caulk in everything after the primer, often Im dealing with a degraded substrate and need to stabilize it before caulking. Second to quality paint is quality caulking. This is a fence and I dont know if the primer is necessary or not. How would I go about this? Or use your mortar mix, add extra portland cement and lime. Check for cracks that are not fully sealed and use caulking to seal them up prior to painting. My concern is the longevity of the paint for the exterior wall. The elastomeric should stick well over the old paint but the old paint can be primer to make sure there is good adhesion. Sound like your sprayer should work fine. No need to sand just patch as best as you can.
Thanks. The biggest thing with cinder blocks is their pores, lots of them. At this point remove all loose paint and caulking, recaulk were needed then prime. When in doubt use a low voc primer, Zinsser 123 or equivalent. The exterior cinder block can be primed and painted after prep as normal, there shouldnt be any significant heat on the outside areas. I put a cinder block sealant/smoother pain I got at Lowe's on mine prior painting.
On interior surfaces use a scrub brush to fully remove stubborn deposits. Polyurethane caulkings must be primed before painting, oil base primer. I cant imagine any builder using cinder block for basement walls.
The paint is not peeling. Go to your local paint store for options. I have the equipment to go out and sandblast the block but my partner feels the sandblasting will be to aggressive and wear out the old blocks and create a worse problem. Im painting exterior smooth concrete block barriers to my yard. In addition, I just finished chiseling away any loose mortar and repointing these joints with new mortar so will have fresh mortar joints to paint as well. Do I need to remove all traces of paint or just peeling paint? Hello! JavaScript is disabled. I just realized that the concrete block which is sealed from the outside as well, now has no way to breathe due to being sealed on both sides. I am painting over previously painted block foundation in the basement. I have a recently constructed cmu shop and just finished aggressively pressure washing the interior walls for paint. That said, I want to ask a quick question and make sure Im on the right track I just purchased a cinder block building that the exterior has the split face blocks that were previously painted. Materials needed for caulking expansion joints are foam backer-rod and non-sagging polyurethane caulk.
It will show.
Possible french drain with sump pump could also help, if applicable. I bought Seal Krete to waterproof the stucco but the label says do not use if the temp drops below 50 degrees in 24 hours. And that is, that the typical paints used for painting exterior walls arent always the best at adhering to masonry surfaces such as cinder blocks, as they struggle against the rougher texture. Go ahead and prime with the dryloc for the walls that occasionally get damp or wet and use 123 everywhere else. The wall has been painted by the previous 0wners, but Im looking to apply a new color. I live in a fairly wet area water does sometimes get into the stairwell, though mostly on the stairs, not through the walls. We installed decorative concrete block (breeze block) in our carport in Seattle a year ago.
You have several choices but if water seeping isnt an issue then a good universal acrylic primer will work. Also, I dont want to lose the look of the split face block. Back rolling is a great way to produce a better looking result even without the need for primer.
Shouldnt window caulking have been done differently, not attached to loose paint? Since his company installed my windows, I might just ask him to redo all the window caulking properly. Need advice. Thank you so much for your help.
You might have to use a mild acid and wire brush to remove the residue.
It was painted years ago, I have been pressure washing it. Graining will be a problem, normally this is done on a piece that is horizontal. All repairs need to be done after the pressure washing. For other areas a standard acrylic primer, like Zinsser 123, will work well. If so, could we tint it and not top coat it for a while? Is it safe to seal and paint if planning to add something on the top of this in a 1-2 years? A good primer to use for chalky surfaces is Zinsser 123. A power washer with some injected house wash (Simple Green) will do well to get rid of any dirt and chalky paint. The primer will help with the loose mortar, gluing it together. Zinsser 123 or equivalent. LC. Can be caused by failing exterior paint, a leaking roof or metal cap flashing. This website is so helpfulthank you. No peeling , no mold and very few cracks to patch.
If spraying, backrolling will be needed.
Staining is an easy alternative to painting that offers a very similar, almost identical, end result. It could have been latex or oil.
Primer? The concrete stain will color the cinder blocks, giving them a mottled look in the color of your choosing. On their side they have a low planter about 2 deep with bamboo that they water regularly. Hi, I have a couple of follow-up questions. Either primer is fine, depends of the overall condition of your walls. The finish paint can be any color sheen you desire. There was previously an issue with water seeping up from the floors Its been taken care of with an interior french drain and sump pump system theres been no water since that was installed over a year ago. An alternative is to apply a very good paintable caulking over the silicone. //www.enduracoat.net/Concrete-Sealers/b/2476102011. Silicone isnt paintable and there is no primer that will stick to it.
If you have an article that you would like to publish, then you may, //www.enduracoat.net/Concrete-Sealers/b/2476102011, https://www.paclandinc.com/portfolio/culver-city-90232-cmu-slump-block-wall/. Well, use a better paint. It can depend on the type of paint that you are using. Apply to all surfaces, inside and out several coats, until saturated with sealer. 4. Consult with the sealer manufacture for specific recommendations. Cheap synthetic roller covers become compressed easily and will be frustrating to work with. Seal-Krete masonry sealer would work well or any exterior grade acrylic clear-coat will work, could even use a varnish or poly. I have a 1950s CMU garage. Optimum levels are 40-50% but 70% or under is fine as long as the temps are good, 75-80 or more. However, some of the white oil-based has peeled off also to reveal the old dark green concrete stain. Do you foresee any problems with only prepping the 3 panels Im concerned with? But as a general rule, you will have to use a primer before painting your cinder blocks. Really tough. What can I put on it to help preserve it and not dull the colors? The wall was previously painted and spot patched for cracks by previous owner.
Then painting, but Ive heard that flat is better for basement walls. I was planning on spot priming with zinsser 123 and then painting entire basement walls and floors.
I want it to be sealed as best that it can.
Any descent paint will do but priming will still be needed. Every paint store will have an exterior acrylic primer. Misting works best with acrylic block fill primer and elastomeric coatings, test with other materials for bubbling during drying. Do I need to be concerned about heat resistance when I select a paint? Yes, you can put any top coat desired over the block filler. Im wondering whether the sealer will hold up to cleaning, whether it will yellow from exposure, and how renewing it (if necessary) will look. I recently gutted and renovated my kitchen. The difference of texture will drastically alter the amount of primer and finish paint needed.
I assumed that it would be similar to the process of preparing to paint, but now Im not sure. (aprrox 200 sq ft) One of the panels does have a half-hearted coat of paint, that seems like perhaps it was a project the previous owner abandoned after learning how labor intensive it is. We used to have a product called waterlox that filled the pours of concrete, waterproofed basements and came in colors. Will work much better than an elastomeric coating or Loxon, both are best used outside and above ground. Currently the sealer/paint is peeling in spots due to past water infiltration. Lee. Advice appreciated. Also, any greasy or oily deposits will need to be cleaned with TSP, trisodium phosphate, and primed with a stain blocking primer. Yep, you want to use a block filler type material for the first under coat. I just cant see how cracking would develop with another acrylic layer based on the discussions above. No need to do anything with the block wall but do double check the landscaping. Just a wiping with warm water for surface dust or a little mild dish soap for some problem areas, no-rinse TSP can also be used for grease or particularly dirty areas. After removing the efflorescence deposits find out were the water leak(s) came from and make any repairs necessary. If you have silicone caulking around the windows then you need to remove as much as possible, if possible, then apply new paintable caulking over it. Are there any visual cues to show if the block is now retaining moisture (pulling from the ground im assuming)? Paint that is stuck well and stable can stay. Right now just fixed the damaged areas, Cement All from Home Depot works well. Typically lower temps are best, around mid-70s-80, but misting with water can help at high temps. You might need to look for a local stucco supplier for the materials or use Rapid Set Motor Mix or Cement All for the base repair and possibly the texture coat as well depending on the look your after. My husband started pressure washing with the intent of taking ALL paint off down to chalky white, but wow! It took alot of the stuff as it is thick and you want to be somewhat generous with it as it is a sealer.
You can use interior wall paint, or acrylic paint, latex paint, or masonry painthonestly, anything will do! What primer would you recommend? Specifically, you will need to use filler block primer, as it has been formulated to fill in the porous surface, and to seal it off so that the paint can adhere on top with ease. So what Im left with is some bare cmu, some paint, and some concrete patch areas. Scrape away any loose material then prime. So if you want to achieve the best and most professional results, it is best to use either acrylic latex paint or more specialized masonry paint. Large professional units can be rented. Wed like to bring them back to natural grey. It was dark by the time I was done but even if it looks fine, would there be any concern about the water getting into the paint on the wall? For the drywall compound use either 45 or 90 minute dry powdered compound, much easier and quicker For the primer use either a good acrylic, Zinsser 123 or equivalent, or a fast drying oil base primer like Zinsser Coverstain or Kilz original. Use an acrylic bonding primer, Zinsser 123.
This will produce a good foundation for the new paint. Perma-Flex is used as the top coat and is tinted. Semi-gloss will be fine, but the sheen could also be satin. Its the other side of the caulking, where it is supposed to be attached to the paint on my block wall, that Im concerned about. 3 Reasons You Should Not Use Drano in a Toilet. #2 If you apply a paint you really should prime. Primer isnt needed. The Zinsser 123 is a good primer that adheres well to difficult surfaces, is readily available and reasonably priced. So far, Ive not had any issues using polycrylicmeaning no ones called me complainingwell not yet anywayYou are correct about the sparathane Varathane Marine spar urethane is the only stuff that actually lives up to its UV protection claims,.Ive only seen it in spray cans, and tbh Ive never looked for gallons of it, but now I will. I sprayed the paint and back rolled but ended up running short on the last 8 ft x 5 ft section or so. Thank you so much.
Since there is no mortar, do I need to use a masonry primer? Count on split-face block needing twice as muck primer and paint when compared to smooth block. Is there something else I should be doing? 
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