You rarely see leaf springs on new cars. Basically, keep the stock system healthy until you can afford to toss it. Although these cost more than rubber bushings, they substantially improve performance. These Global West tubular upper control arms are stout enough to handle even the most extreme loads. Their rubber bushings at the frame rail mount also tend to disintegrate over time, thus allowing the ram to move more than it should. To achieve the ultimate in front-suspension performance while still retaining the factory shock towers a full coil-over conversion system is necessary. The Mustang had this issue from the beginning so export braces and Monte Carlo bars were offered. In its time the suspension of the first-generation Mustang was as advanced as any pony or muscle car suspension from Detroit. Even for cars not driven aggressively the installation of subframe connectors with an export brace and a Monte Carlo bar stiffen the car so that squeaks and rattles are greatly reduced. There are many more sophisticated and expensive options, which may be adjustable, but they are not really needed at this level of modification or its cost criteria. Once you determine the correct spring rate you can finalize the type of spring to determine the rear ride height. I try to do so in a way that also helps make up for 40 or more years of wear and aging by replacing worn or damaged parts with cost-effective upgrades rather than installing direct-replacement parts. Harder bushings help minimize slight fore and aft movement. It consisted of an upper control arm, a lower control arm, and a strut rod on each side combined with an anti-sway bar, springs, shocks, etc.
Using direct-fit polyurethane bushings is okay if you want to keep costs to a minimum. In some cases the joint could actually fail under extreme use. These cars tend to sag a bit due to a combination of metal fatigue, corrosion, rust, loose or missing fasteners, and broken welds. The majority of these upgrades involves eliminating excessive compliance/play in the suspension so that the movement of the parts is limited to a smaller range and is thus more predictable. With this Global West complete coil-over conversion system, the OEM spring/shock setup is replaced by a coil-over setup, which mounts to the revised lower control arm to better direct/distribute the spring forces. The springs themselves are available in various configurations and rates to suit different needs. The upper arms are modified to allow the coilover to pass through plus there is a special mounting scheme for the coilover to the shock tower. Bolt-in designs are generally not as effective as weld-in designs but welding them after theyre bolted in usually helps. The power steering pump rarely has any problems other than perhaps a leaking seal or hose. The starting point is the elimination of the stock rubber spring eye and shackle bushings because theyre probably worn out anyway. The TCP kit meets all these criteria while also having an exceptionally quick ratio (three turns lock-to-lock versus four or more for OEM racks), straight-cut gears, a large-diameter rack for strength, and the correct geometry. Another modification is to supplement the existing subframe connectors with side rails that extend out to the sills to further stiffen the floorpan. When combined with a proper roll bar/roll cage structure you have as stable (and safe) a platform as possible (without a full tube chassis) when starting with an early Mustang body. To make things even stronger, you can weld the mounting plates wherever you can get to them. Global West offers normal, reverse-eye, and mid-eye springs, which can drop the rear of the vehicle up to 112 to 2 inches below stock while preserving the correct spring shape/arc (some others alter the spring shape). The ride can be a bit harsher. Once the tabs have been welded on and painted, the fixtures can be removed and replaced by the upper links. In extreme cases and/or where the box is leaking or otherwise damaged you can have it rebuilt or buy one that already has been rebuilt. Because power is useless without control you need to understand how the suspension helps the force at the tires be transformed into motion while the steering (for the most part) determines what direction the motion is in. The front and rear suspensions are tied together so the chassis and suspension system respond as a single unit. They were usable enough and safe enough for normal street use but, other than perhaps in drag racing, they were not really feasible for use during any type of highspeed high-performance driving. The springs cannot move sideways to any degree, thus enhancing stability while allowing for slightly more effective tire clearance and/or wider tires. The reason is the tabs to be welded to the axle housing must be precisely located to ensure the axle is properly located in all directions. Other than cost, the only possible negative to subframe connectors is the potential loss of ground clearance, especially with a lowered car, and maybe a small weight increase. Like many other cars that rolled out of Detroit the Mustang is a unibody car and, unless the body and suspension have been recently restored, time has most likely taken its toll. In higher-performance situations a rear bar may prove to be beneficial if it helps balance the car but this probably isnt an issue with a daily driver. Replace or upgrade the strut rods if theyre bent. A simple but critical upgrade is to fully weld the shock towers. It has far fewer system components. It eliminates the OEM rubber bushing in favor of a spherical bearing. Electric-assist systems generally dont have the same direct feel as a hydraulic system. Some units integrate the assist motor directly onto the rack, though that can be a packaging problem. Even right off the showroom floor they were vague, void of any real communication from the road, and not very responsive to inputs. A higher-output pump is required so one is supplied with the necessary mounting bracket, hoses, steering link adaptor (if needed), and even a new rag joint. Further front anti-sway bar modifications may not be needed if you already did some. Such bars may be smaller or larger in diameter than the stock bar depending on differences in materials, design (solid versus hollow), shape, and adjustability (extra holes, etc.). The spring shackles are also reinforced. Even though much more radical (and costly) options are available, this simple level of upgrading still makes a dramatic improvement in vehicle performance. These can be adapted to work with most engine swaps such as this 5.0L EFI engine. This construction accomplishes several things. The standard steering systems on early Mustangs left quite a bit to be desired. The steering is much more direct and responsive while also being much more durable and reliable with minimal risk of leaks. For a daily driver that sees lots of potholes and other road hazards its best to use rubber bushings. You can copy and paste this link to share: https://www.diyford.com/mustang-suspension-steering-uprades/, The daily driver focuses on minor modifications with a limited budget based on the factory-style suspension. The Level 1 system comes with non-adjustable shocks and no front anti-sway bar. The OEM parts arent very strong so its best to use good aftermarket components such as those sold by Mustangs Plus and Global West. When going to a higher spring rate its also advisable to replace the OEM rubber spring isolators with polyurethane components from Energy Suspension or a similar manufacturer. This upgraded daily driver rear suspension doesnt look much different than the original suspension unless you look closely. A Mustangs cornering ability is improved while body roll is limited. This added flexibility can be very convenient plus it can be a competitive advantage with quicker adjustments. TCP includes specific mounting hardware for each car. A sudden suspension jolt or impact can cause the strut rod to bend (or even break off) at the base of the threads. Because there are far fewer of these bushings their effect is less.
An export brace bolts between the firewall and the shock towers to brace them under hard cornering. Air springs are able to change damping characteristics on demand for increased ground clearance and performance at various speeds and applications. Using leaf springs also introduces some unique issues. The track-day car utilizes a more-robust design at the front and rear plus more radical options when there are no budgetary or other constraints. In 1970 Parnelli Jones took the Boss 302 to the Trans-Am Championship. This configuration is well suited as a transition from a daily driver because the main components are completely suitable for daily street use yet allow maximum performance when additional upgrades are installed. Even higher spring loads and cornering forces place a greater load on the body and chassis and cracks tend to develop in the thin sheet metal of the towers. Considering all the new parts you get, this is one of the best upgrades you can make for the money. The OEM design utilizes a spring perch that positions the spring on the upper control arm. They greatly affect the stability of the car, especially under hard braking. If your old/OEM system needs any significant amount of investment for your daily driver or high-performance street car this Borgeson setup is the better way to go. These better tolerate higher spring rates and further reduce unwanted compliance. The tabs almost surely need to be trimmed a bit before welding to minimize gaps between the tabs and the housing. Their design is unique in that the spring and shackle bolts ride inside a plated steel sleeve that is inside precisely machined cylindrical Delrin bushings. Remember, the suspension is a system, not just a combination of parts. For a daily driver the factory leaf spring-style suspension is usually retained. They do, however, require periodic lubrication to prevent noise. Similarly, ride height can be changed by adjusting the collars on the shocks or by moving the upper shock mount to a different hole in the cradle. The system weighed more and was prone to leaks. These units are lighter than stock parts, require minimal maintenance (just a grease fitting on top), and provide virtually the same adjustability as more-expensive systems with easier installation.
In most cases a Watts linkage offers superior performance but costs more. Better rack-and-pinion systems such as the TCP conversion kit mount the rack in such a way that its not bearing any load other than that of the steering forces. Because making any major changes to the stock design of my project car would inevitably exceed my budget, I profile certain targeted upgrades that yield the biggest performance increase for a reasonable investment. These OEM-style arms feature slightly revised mounting nuts and cross shafts to reduce play via more precise threads. A vehicle in this category sees a lot of extreme use so it needs even more chassis stiffening than the other types. Tie rod ends, ball joints, and so forth arent especially expensive and should be the first things to get replaced if theyre worn or damaged with excessive play. They simply bolt onto the existing factory or aftermarket (preferred) upper arms and require only minimal adaptation on top of the shock towers. A special mount secures the top of the shock. The best designs have fully welded tubes and large, thick attachment brackets that contact the frame stubs on three sides. One of most effective and affordable methods for improving chassis strength and ridgity is to use subframe connectors. The rear spring eye receives the same type of Del-A-Lum bushing and enjoys the same benefits. The real benefit, however, is the greatly improved stiffness and torsional bending. This kit from Chris Alstons Chassisworks is one example. Like any OEM suspension design, the rubber is intended to improve ride comfort plus reduce vibration and road noise. The support cradle is reinforced by gussets and links, which extend forward to attach to the original leaf-spring mounts. Side-to-side movement is almost completely eliminated through the use of Delrin thrust surfaces. The springs can be replaced with others having a different spring rate and revised construction, which can alter the vehicle height.
Proper weld penetration is critical. Theres little point in upgrading to a more expensive, adjustable shock in a daily driver unless you intend to stay with leaf springs for the foreseeable future. The polyurethane version has a little more compliance than the others but may require a bit more maintenance in terms of lubrication but its also less costly. A curved bar may be necessary to clear a larger distributor or other obstruction but these are not as strong unless they use thicker-wall tubes. Tubular, non-OEM arms are also available. More importantly, the integration of the power assist directly into the steering box greatly improves steering feel and response. If the strut rods are improperly adjusted the wheel alignment may be off and there can be a high possibility of the car pulling to one side under braking or acceleration. Underbody subframe connectors can be supplemented for higher-performance use. Written by Frank Bohanan and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks. Polyurethane should never be used for a street car because it can restrict and bind the arc of suspension travel. In addition, the frame bushing is also replaced with a Del-A-Lum bushing to eliminate another source of unwanted compliance and instability. The long torque arm mounted directly to the front of the axle housing (and also to the body near the transmission) uses the axle forces generated to help plant the tires under acceleration and greatly reduce dive under braking. First-generation Mustangs were equipped with mundane hydraulic shocks at the factory, which faded after severe acceleration, hard braking, and aggressive cornering. Replacing them with thicker, square lockout plates eliminates this possibility because they are held firmly in place yet still allow for a wide range of adjustment (in six steps versus continuously). However, you can install four-bolt ball joints and not drill new mounting holes 1 inch lower in the shock towers for a Shelby mod. They suffer from having a panhard rod that creates lateral movement of the rear axle due to the arc the panhard rod swings through. Straight four-link and some three-link designs are often low in cost and relatively easy to install. This means converting to a rack-and-pinion steering system. All spherical bearings have grease fittings and are capable of being readjusted and even rebuilt if necessary. They provide at least as much tunability with superior geometry plus theyre still far less costly than a full Mustang II subframe system. They reduce movement and provide more cushioning compared to their rubber counterparts but they can squeak if not greased. In some cases you may need to further trim the column housing. Its also fine for a street/strip car that just drag races. To get the full benefit of them you should also replace the OEM eccentric cam bolts with Global Wests lockout kit. Rebuilt rams are available, though theyre not cheap. The far greater handling and braking forces of high-performance use require a significant redesign of the strut bars. Air springs add weight and take up space. The loads are also more widely distributed, minimizing concentrations, which can cause problems at weak spots. There may be clearance issues if youre using the factory Z-bar on a manual transmission car; you may need to change to a cable or hydraulic clutch release system to make things work. The lower control arm with a strut rod has some pretty large (and soft) rubber bushings. The tabs to be welded are bolted to the other end before the fixtures are adjusted to rest the tabs in the proper place for welding. They also are much more complicated to install (and tune) due to the need for an air compressor, tank, lines, etc. The Total Control Products (TCP) Econo Bolt-On Coil-Over spring and shock combination is a great way to upgrade the stock front suspension. They accept all other OEM components and are a very good choice for drag race vehicles where the need for lighter weight is more important than the need to handle higher cornering. This is easily done by loosening the locknut on the steering box and adjusting the screw per factory instructions. Still, there are a few things you can do to the stock suspension to improve it enough for street and moderate performance use. The Borgeson system completely eliminates the hydraulic ram/cylinder and control valve because all of their functionality has been incorporated into the new steering box. Based on 19792004 Mustangs, its a direct bolt-in with only minimal welding required. 
You experience better steering every time you drive the car. To take handling performance to the next level, be sure the subframe and the suspension are strong and sound.
They claim its not necessary due to their choice of springs, shocks, and geometry. This isnt necessary in a drag race situation where the front bar may be removed (at least at the strip) to reduce weight. The location of the true pivot point is held stable and constant (it moves around with rubber), thus minimizing random variations in the caster change throughout the full arc of movement. For a high-performance application a higher spring rate is needed and this produces a harsher ride and fails to maintain as stable a total rear tire contact patch. Its a good idea to replace OEM strut rod bushings on any vehicle with high mileage because rubber deteriorates over time, even if the car has been sitting. The majority of the front suspension loads are imposed on the shock towers yet theyre only partially welded from the factory. If the cradle and axle tabs are properly placed the length of the upper links should be nearly identical. Incompatible designs could result in the locating peg on the springs not reaching the corresponding hole on the axle mounting plate. You cannot precisely tune spring rate for the best compromise between road holding and ride comfort. This provides firm or soft roll control.
They can even improve the ride due to less initial impact friction (stiction). Installation of a new steering box is pretty simple; its a direct bolt-in. These arms offer additional strut rod mounting holes plus revised geometry for potentially better performance, especially when used as part of a complete negativeroll kit. Friction and wear are greatly reduced so they last longer. A centering ring inside the shock tower locates the top end of the spring while the shock absorber passes through the center of it and the spring. The mid-priced g-link system has steel lower links versus the lighter, more-obvious, and more-costly billet aluminum links of the highest-cost system but it is otherwise identical. This is because highperformance applications place greater loads on the car, which means that achieving greater torsional rigidity in the frame and suspension is imperative. Global West offers a significantly reinforced stock-type lower arm that is boxed on the underside to greatly improve strength. Global West, Total Control Products, and others offer direct-replacement springs with various rates and ride heights to suit various situations. If the cost of doing this proves to be too high you can perform an upgrade instead. This torque-arm/pushrod system does an incredible job of improving handling performance and traction under acceleration and braking. If youre thinking of buying a complete replacement you probably should just save your money and upgrade to a better system instead. Its typical of similar mid-priced and more-capable systems. They allow use of all stock components but, realistically, these parts should also be upgraded to achieve the best result. Coil springs lack the internal friction of leaf springs. Inexpensive rebuild kits with superior materials reduce the tendency for leaks or excessive play after the rebuild. Each shock tower should be fully welded along each seam to enhance their overall strength. TCPs g-link system is a canted four-link design. The installation of the upper links is by far the most difficult aspect of installing this suspension. When an axle assembly with a recessed locating hole is used special metal inserts such as these from Global West are likely to be needed. Upgraded aftermarket lower control arms provide significant performance improvement over stock. A very effective and reasonably priced way to dramatically improve steering performance is to replace it with a more contemporary system such as this one from Borgeson (left). In addition to locating the lower control arm front-to-back, strut rods are responsible for absorbing the majority of the braking forces transferred to the suspension. For a daily driver the most costeffective thing to do is to replace the existing bushings with firmer/higher durometer versions such as these available through Global West. In a powered system you also need a pump and hoses because the power assist is usually integral to the rack, if you want it to be. The following is an installation overview of a Borgeson powersteering conversion. Early Mustangs benefit greatly from a Monte Carlo bar (the straight, adjustable bar between the shock towers) and an export brace (the fixed bars running between the firewall and the shock towers). Click the button below and we will send you an exclusive deal on this book. The high-performance street car takes things up a notch by using upgraded components at the front and eliminating the leaf springs at the rear. Eliminating compliance and flexing of the lower arm is of little benefit if the arm is not kept in proper alignment/ adjustment.
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