But a study from the UK's Nottingham Trent University, led by Professor Tim Cooper of the School of Architecture, Design and the Built Environment, believes they're making a mistake. The wood-screws should be dimensioned to be driven in 2mm-holes. Attach (2x) "PP04_Cord-Pin" to the rear hatch with a screw and washer each. A DIY Vacuum Tweezer/Pickup Tool to help with manually picking up and placing tiny components. Two of the screw holes lie on the vertical mark. The guides on the outside of PP23 need to be aligned with the horizontal and vertical marks. Refer to the drawing for how to arrange the boards correctly. And we also put marks on the smallest surfaces of the pieces and connect them with the marks we made in the previous step. Attach "PP23_Central-Filter-Holder_Base" with 4 screws and washers. It does not matter to which of the two cables you solder it. Mount (4x) "PP1007_Motorholder-Rear_wood-mounted-part" to the four side walls with two screws and washers each. For the next steps we do not need the two slender pieces so you can put them aside. Now we prepare the box for sanding and remove all the remaining screws. REAR INSIDE / FRONT INSIDE / MOTOR: Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line. A vacuum that will operate for 10+ seconds off a pull cord. Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line like on the other side of the boards.
LEFT-side-surface / RIGHT-side-surface: Add three horizontal marks per board. Cleaning hose, pipe and nozzle is easy: Just fill them with hot soapwater and shake them. The screw holes lie on the vertical mark. Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line. There is nothing worse than starting to build something, just to realize that the instructions are insufficient that doesn't happen here. You can of course also look for another drawstring-bag-tutorial and follow that one I just did a quick search and there might be better ones. There are five different rubber parts: Some are made from pieces of tube, others are cut out of the tube. It does not matter how wide your tube is, but you can make your life easier by trying to find wide tube instead of very slender types like that used in racing bikes. ", Screw the lid together with the filter onto the filter-holder-base (PP23). Now mark the backside of the boards in the lower. Read through the next seven steps and put the box together without glue and screws and start putting it together for real when you have an idea how it needs to be assembled. Step 177: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 1/2.
Bicycle tubes are usually curved because wheels are unfortunately round. This makes it a bit tricky to make flat, even rubber sheets out of them. Sure! There are two holes in the TOP-board that you cannot find with the help ob the printed parts. Making the Box Preparing the Boards 2/2, For the next step, make sure that the boards are arranged in a way that all the. If the turbine of your motor has a very inconvenient shape (for example a protruding metal collar exactly at the height where the motor holders end) that prevents you from mounting it properly, try to slide some extra rubber-bits under the rubber-padding of the motor holders. The 2000W-power-regulator (see previous step) works with PP14-s07 and the 4000W-version withPP14-s10. You can also tighten the cable-tighteners now. I assume you get your wood cut to size where you buy it, so I did not add a table circular saw. It's purpose is to remove around 1 liter of smoke. Attach (2x) "PP04_Cord-Pin" to the front hatch with a screw and washer each. If you do not buy the wood pre-cut, but cut it yourself think about a smart order, so you do not need to change the length-stop too often many of the dimensions are identical.
You need to slide it in sideways first and when it sits in place, pull it through the circular hole. Doesn't sound like a fun reward? The other terminal connects to the single wire that is already attached to the heat-sensor-switch. Heat-sensor-switches can be bought with different temperature-ratings and for Tenok we need one that activates at 80C (or in more precisely between 72 and 88 C because of tolerance). If you scavenge a switch that looks different, you will need to go on searching, because only this one fits at the moment. Repeat the last two steps 7 times, so you have 8 shock absorbers in total. In the motor chamber, grab the cord that comes out of the central wall and attach one of it's two wires to the heat-sensor-switch that we mounted earlier. Wrap two off the rubber-shock-absorbers around the printed part (third picture). BOTTOM INSIDE: Align the printed part "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards.
The last wood working we have to do is making a handle for the vacuum cleaner. PP1007 has built-in guides to mark the part's center that you need to align with the vertical mark. If you happen to find one, feel free to go ahead and design an adaptor I'll add that version to the 3D-printer-files then. Tip: Often tubes have seam-lines that you can use as a guide so your holes end up on the same height.
Place the rubber cable-gasket in the already mounted outer part of the Cable-Holder (PP06) on the central wall that seperates the motor chamber from the bag chamber. 
Step 148: Collect Parts for Frontal Motor Holders. The guides on the outside of PP08 need to be aligned with the horizontal mark. To do so you need to place the clip on a bar of the celtic cross and push it towards the nut so that it slides onto the guide rails (on the sides of the bar) and around the nut. Cut off two pieces of rope, each 120cm long. Turn the box around, so you see the bag chamber. does the trick perfectly. Step 172: Partly Assemble the Electronics CompartmentAgain. The screw holes lie on the horizontal and vertical marks. The edge of PP1007 needs to be aligned with the horizontal mark. (Maybe) access to the high vacuum environment for the rest of us, A pick n place machine to finish jigsaw puzzles, Using a vacuum and pressurized air to shoot ping pong balls. For this step you need the 3D-printed part "PP1007_Motorholder-Rear_wood-mounted-part". Flip the boards upside down, so that they lie in front of you as in the picture. Slide the power-switch into PP14 so that it sits under PP20, 4.) On the third picture I connected them to give you an idea how the circuit looks. Use scissors to cut out the hole you traced in the previous step. "This is a real issue, as the manufacture of vacuum cleaners accounts for the second largest production of greenhouse gases among electrical products.". Again apply glue to one of the yet uncovered walls and press the foil against it. Attach "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and (4x) rubber hatch-gasket-pieces to the front hatch with 8 screws and washers. Flip the LEFT and RIGHT boards sideways and put the INLET-board in between so that they form the letter "H". (T LK^2^\LUW}`:cX=$3-AP}L
r.3(6ePJh"i`OWbJzTRtK 9. Align the printed part "PP12_Bag-coupling" with the marks on the board. Remove the wood from the inner hatched areas with the help of a saw and a small chisel. 
The two versions in the first picture, both fit into Tenok's 3D-printed electronics-compartment, but you need to print different files, depending on which regulator you want to use (more info in the next step). You can check if the ends are planar by putting something flat and rigid on them: If you see gaps you should grab a file and make work the ends planar. The linked tutorial does not use an old scarf, but a towel instead, but close enough I would say. A 3D printed cyclonic dust extraction attachment for a domestic vacuum cleaner. Stick the shaft of the power regulator module's potentiometer through PP14 and screw the nut back on the shaft. Putting some scrap-wood between the clamp and the box avoids clamp marks. LEFT / RIGHT / INLET Flip the boards upside down sideways. Why does the wooden handle suddenly look strange? You do not have to rush through the assembly, but it's good practice to put the box together without interruptions while not glueing it together the wrong way round. 3.) Remove the nuts and washers from the M8-hex-bolts. Again the 8mm are measured from the surface we marked initially. This step is especially important when you used coniferous wood like me as it can leak resin when it gets warm and you do not want resin to ooze into your motor, when the vacuum cleaner gets a little warmer. Reward yourself by vacuuming the room! Take the bigger piece of aluminum foil and fold its 20mm wide pre-folded areas flat on the piece.
For all the cables I found the central hole of the cable tighteners was big enough, but if your cable does not fit through, get out a drill and show that 3D-printed thing who's boss. TOP OUTSIDE: Make marks to drill a 20mm-hole and two 30mm-marks. Now that you know how long to cut your rubber pieces, make three more of them and place them on the front hatch like I did in the picture. A hardware kit to experiment with inflatable and vacuum based soft robotics. Some vendors prefer to call the NC-version "opener", because it opens (opposed to a shutter) the circuit. The 8mm in the drawing are measured from the edge of the surface we have marked before. Do not touch the hatched areas around the edges yet. Making the wooden enclosure does not require elaborate wood-working skills and all other structural parts can be 3D-printed using a standard FDM-printer like a Prusa. The Hex-bolts should all be threaded across the whole shank: (4x) M8 hex-bolts, 60 mm long; It can be difficult to find fully threaded M8 bolts in that size. Step 173: Installing the Power-Switch & Button.
You might have noticed that this part has indicated additional screw holes. For this project that works better than listing them here.
LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. Make sure the screw-threads fit through them. Two of the screw holes lie on the vertical mark. Again, start by putting some glue on the wall that seperates the chambers (or more precisely on the foil that covers it now). I just included it, so you do not get confused by that ominous brown strip that appears on the next photos. That's why there are also a lot of instructions online about making such a bag, so I decided to just link one of them here. 40mm: FRONT OUTSIDE / INLET: Drill (2x) 40mm-holes where you made a 40mm-mark before. We need the NC-version because the switch shall let electricity through (=be closed) until it gets too warm and opens the circuit to stop the flow of electricity. Drill (16x) 5mm-holes where the lines cross. For the next step, make sure that the boards are arranged in a way that all the INSIDE-marks and the MOTOR-mark are visible in the lower right corner like in the drawing. (If your rubber sheet was to short to cut proper squares, rotate every second piece, so that the stack becomes squareish). So say Goodbye to the piece of belt and say hello to the new handle design. Add two horizontal marks (one of them is the extension of a mark you made earlier). If not: Find some heat-resistant (at least 90C) glue for this step. INLET: Align the printed part "PP23_Central-Filter-Holder_Base" with the marks on the board. At first sight, single and double spiral hoses look pretty much the same, but you can easily distinguish them: You might have noticed that vacuum cleaner hoses have a thread that runs all around them. Now we collect the parts to put the central piece of the rear motor holder together. Double thread means that two threads are running in parallel around the hose and if you follow one of the threads with your finger around the hose, you will notice with each turn that it looks as if you have skipped a thread, but that "skipped" thread is in fact the second thread that runs in next to the one you are tracing. Now trace the two screw holes with a pencil. That's why there are also a lot of. You can pre-drill screw holes or if you used soft wood just rambo them in without. Tip 2: When you remove the bottom of the hole punch you can see more easily where you are punching. The length of the pieces you want to make is 230 minus the width of the tube, so if you measured for example 40mm, then you need to cut off 190mm long strips (because 230-40 = 190). Apply heat resistant glue (see below) evenly to the rear hatch's INSIDE-surface. The guides on the outside of PP12 need to be aligned with the diagonal marks. Next we want to drill holes into the feet, so you should let the glue dry for sveral hours. Thread the rope from below through one of the handle-holders (PP10) and twice through the handle like in the picture. /5iTLV I. We start by making shock absorbers for the frontal motor holders. Now all the functional parts and cable connections are in the box. "People are throwing them away prematurely rather than maintaining them properly and carrying out relatively simple repairs," said Professor Cooper. I will provide further information about those two components in the next step. Now you need to find the hidden screw-holes under the foil and poke them with a screwdriver. This requires some effort. Do not drill through the wood! The guides on the outside of PP12 need to be aligned with the diagonal marks. The guides on the outside of PP23 need to be aligned with the horizontal and vertical marks. The threaded part of the tightener needs to point towards the cable holder that is mounted on the bottom of the chamber.
Step 205: Drill Into, But NOT Through the Wood. Decide which sides of the wooden boards shall be on the outside of the vacuum cleaner. Use a compass do draw a 143mm-circle in the center of this board. Loosely screw a 50mm-M5-hex-bolt into the nuts in the printed part (second picture). Naturally TOP-OUTSIDE should be on the outside of the box we are building. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE WOOD! Easy: It has the screw holes for the rear-hatch-gasket-holder (PP1009). For the handle you will need to cut a 37cm long piece of rope. Put the hose through the lid of the hose-coupling (PP03) like in the second picture. In later steps I will refer to the workpieces by the, like they were pages of a book so that you see the other, unmarked side of them. Step 42: Trace the Screw-holes for PP11 & PP1009. Solder one cable shoe to one of the cables in the power-cord. In your case it might look a bit different, but that's fine. As a first step the 35mm-wood-screws that we removed for sanding are screwed back into the box. I will provide some additional information about suitable motors and switches in the coming steps. Step 38: Assemble the Electronics Compartment. The rounder you make them, the more comfortable the handle will be in your hand later on.
Repeat the previous steps with the remaining three inner parts of the motor holder and once all four inner parts are finished, slide them into the outer parts that are already screwed into the box. As we are running quite high current through the circuit, the switch should withstand at least 10A (ampere) in a country with 220V-power-grid. Now cut out the circular filter you traced on the micro-filter-fabric. The motor should sit tight between the four rubber-damped frontal motor holders. One is a power regulator, that controls the motor speed and the other is a heat-sensor-switch (80C-rated, NC) that turns the vacuum cleaner off when it gets too warm. I used linseed oil to keep the natural look of the wood, but you can of course use something else, if you like. 50) helix. Now that the outer parts of the frontal-motor-holder are mounted, we can prepare the inner parts. For holding hundreds of your personal belongings. If you cannot slide them in completely, work the parts with a utility knife or similar. I included adaptors for single spiral (PP02-. Why buying an expensive cyclone vacuum cleaner when you can build yourself one? When doing so, you can refer to the picture above for how to arrange the boards. 30mm: TOP OUTSIDE: Drill (2x) 30mm-holes where you made a 30mm-mark before.
The parts are designed for easy printing and only two of them require you to print a small amount of support material. When you do not remember what goes where just go back to the step where we assembled the electronics compartment for the first time. Lay the cut-open bicycle tube flat on the table. The guides on the outside of PP1001 need to be aligned with the diagonal marks. Now you need to let the box rest, so the glue can dry ideally for 24 hours, if you are patient enough, but over night is also OK. Make marks to drill a 20mm-hole and two 30mm-marks. Drill (2x) 8mm-holes where you made a 8mm-mark before. You can just ignore those details in the photos In the end they will disappear and we mount the updated handle.
Now attach the power cord under the box with (2x) "PP05_Cable-Clamp" and two screws & washers each. For drilling into the side surfaces it's helpful to put up some sort of guide, to align the board to it like I did in the photo, After drilling the boards are ready for assembly.
In general that might be true, but you just made a full-blown vacuum cleaner on your own, how cool is that? Cut out pieces of aluminum foil in the sizes you find in the drawing, add the indicated cut-outs and also pre-fold the foil as indicated. Make a vacuum chamber from a pressure cooker. Now you should again see the boards form a wooden "H", but with the unmarked side surfaces facing up. The guides on the outside of PP08 need to be aligned with the horizontal mark. Now we will prepare the electrical components. Maybe helix is the correct word, but let's stay with spiral for simplicity. Pull the power cord through the central square hole of the box's rear foot and then through the 8mm-hole in the bottom. You need to get the cable through the cable holder and in there through the little hole in the rubber piece that we installed in the previous step. Screw the TOP-board tight to the "H" with eight of the 35mm-wood-screws and 8 washers. PLEASE NOTE: If you plan to use some sort of delicate paint finish, you might want to quickly perform step 202-204 and drill the holes for the handle-holders (PP10) before you apply the finish. The holes in the corners of the adaptor should approximately align with the holes in the rubber parts and holes in the celtic cross, Before we fix the motor-adaptor to the celtic-cross, check if it will align well with the mounting-holes in the back of the motor.
If the glue of the box has already dried for some time (check the description on the glue you are using), you can remove the clamp and the four screws in the corners of the bottom. If you have to get a rubber hammer, it's definitely too tight. A used hose is that hygienic to use? Step 163: Attach Rear Hatch Gasket and PP1009. Step 179: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 2/2.
Now file of fthe edges until you are left with nice chamfers and the feet are done! In the end we will have this circuit in the vacuum cleaner: An on/off-switch, which is connected to the power regulator that controls how fast the motor is running and a heat-sensor-switch to turn everything off when it gets too warm that's it. Step 162: Attach Front Hatch Gasket and PP11.
Those would require a special adaptor, but they seem to be not so common and I did not find one yet. DIY pump controller based on a STM32 and few more parts. Here are some examples: PP02-s38 fits a single spiral (s) hose with a 38mm-diameter. Refer to the list that is attached to this step to see, which settings are necessary for which part. Maybe helix is the correct word, but let's stay with spiral for simplicity. Draw horizontal and vertical lines through the center of the square boards. Repeat the previous step 5 times, so you have six rear shock aborbers in total. Put the last filter into "PP21_Central-Filter-Holder_Lid. Screw a M8-nut and washer loosely on each screw.
Upon learning that many discarded vacuums are easily repairable, he tackled the topic for his Masters project, called Tenok. Again BOTTOM-OUTSIDE should be on the OUTSIDE of the box we are building. On the first picture you can see how the components were connected in the vacuum cleaner I took them from.
Align the printed parts "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and "PP1009_Rear-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" with the marks on the boards. We do not need the circuit board, but we are interested in the cables that are attached to it. Our website uses cookies to enhance the site operation and understand traffic and website performance. There are two parts where you need to choose a size, depending on which components you have scavenged / bought, namely print-parts PP02 (hose-adaptor) and PP14 (electronics compartment, upper part). It works like a lamp dimmer, but is suitable for higher current. PP20 only fits one way: When you look closely at the picture you can see that it has a small recess on one side. REAR OUTSIDE: Align the printed part "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" with the mark on the board. Thread the rope from above through the other handle-holder and make a knot in the other end. You can use the line-drawing in the beginning of the tutorial to identify the correct part. Attach "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" on the bottom inside the box with two screws and washers. Connect the remaining wire that comes from the box's central wall to one terminal of the motor (it does not matter to which). The result are perpendicular crosses. Place the rubber turbine-gasket on the turbine-gasket-holder (PP1001). Attach "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" to the outside of the rear hatch with 6 screws and washers. Align the feet with the edges of the bottom and clamp them to the box. Step 102: Place the Last Aluminum Foil Piece. As we see in the diagram, the functional components are already complete, but the connection between them is not. Update your browser for more security, comfort and the best experience on this site. Insert PP17 with the tapering side first into PP14. If you do not have a 40mm-drill, you can carefully cut those holes out with a jigsaw instead (like in the next step). Drill about 13mm deep into the wood. Align the printed part "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards. Cut a 57mm long piece off the tube and punch a hole on each side. 1.) They serve well as guides for the cut. For that reason I found that it works best to cut it open at its peak. REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE: Add two vertical marks per board. LEFT-side-surface2 / RIGHT-side-surface2 / INLET-side-surface2. Remove about 50mm of the power cords's outer sheathing and from each end of the piece you cut off, so that the inner cables are revealed. Now finish attaching this piece by glueing the 20mm wide folded strips to the walls. The screw holes lie on the vertical mark. Step 60: Drill into, but NOT through the Boards! Now apply glue to one of the walls and press the foil against it. Step 175: Closing the Electronics Compartment. Step 187: Secure the M8-nuts with 4x PP1004. PLEASE NOTE: Before you mount this part, mage sure that the M8-hex-bolts fit into them. Make sure that the side with the cable shoes is in the motor chamber in the end. You are the manufacturer, so you can use, repair and maintain Tenok your whole life! Repeat the previous step with the opposing wall. (If you do not have the electric components yet, you can do without the switch and use a simple potentiometer instead of the whole power regulator.). Screw the Hose-adaptor onto the hose like in the third picture (screws tight counter-clockwise). It requires some force to pull the needle through, so I used pliers to grab it. I was born in NYC and figured Id die there, but a few years ago I abandoned New York to live on a farm in the countryside with my wife. Attach "PP06_Cable-Holder-central-wall_Outer-Part" with two screws and washers. The ones that you put up now, will be the outside surfaces. That way you avoid the risk of messing up the finished surface. No worries, we will just sand the marks off in the end and they will not be visible on the finished vacuum cleaner. Again we press the foil to the glue we have just applied. Draw horizontal lines positioned as in the drawing. Slide "PP22_Central-Filter-Holder_Grid" into the central-filter-holder-base we installed in the previous step. From above, put "PP17_Electronics-air-inlet_Grid" into it's place in the electronics compartment. Use a compass or make a mark to drill (or cut) 40mm-holes in the center of those boards. I made some oven-tests with glue I already had to see if I need to buy special heat-resistant glue to attach the aluminum-foil to the wood and it turned out that my Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue does the trick perfectly. INLET: Align the printed part "PP06_Cable-Holder-central-wall_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards. By now I am quite confident that the gaskets can last very long, but the indicated screw holes do no harm so I kept them.
. There are two types of those switches: One is normally open (NO) and the other is normally closed (NC). FRONT OUTSIDE / INLET: Use a compass or make a mark to drill (or cut) 40mm-holes in the center of those boards. Now trace the 16 screw holes (8 per part). REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. BOTTOM INSIDE / TOP INSIDE / LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Align the 4 printed parts "PP1007" with the marks on the boards. Apply some force to the bond between the LEFT and RIGHT board and the INLET board by attaching a clamp to the box. REAR INSIDE / FRONT INSIDE / MOTOR: Draw horizontal and vertical lines through the center of the square boards. Small built-in square holes in the parts serve as guides and need to be aligned with the horizontal and vertical marks. Now flip the boards sideways like they were pages of a book so that you see the other, unmarked side of them.
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