He suggested using my propane torch to char them. A few tips. Once rain-screens were added to our building code for coastal areas here in BC, lumberyards started stocking pre-cut 1/2" and 3/4'" plywood strips. If youre using thin, lightweight lumber, you wont need to stress about it. Although the material is cost-effective and quite beautiful, its less durable and has been known to have a much shorter lifespan than other materials, such as cedar or James Hardie. Although the material is cost-effective and quite beautiful, its less durable and has been known to have a much shorter lifespan than other materials, such as cedar or James Hardie. use 1x4 not 1x3s (we often are residing and use the old siding/trim when possible (need wide boards for corners) I went around and sprayed the worst spots with my magic mix and it seems to have helped. Thicker furring strips to minimize fussing and guarantee a solid siding job seems worth it, even thought it pains me to buy 2x4's instead of 1x4's for furring strips. Then I have to purchase the additional lumber for the bulky furring strips, and work out the window details at that added depth. 
I would ask them to explain that discrepancy; the corresponding sections in the guide for Hardie Planks has no such discrepancy, which allows for 1.25" roofing nails into either studs or furring strips. Since this thread was originally posted, I decided to go with a continuous exterior layer of mineral wool (rockwool comfortboard 80) which is 1.5 inches thick. I have some exposed floor joists and these are just too ugly to show, unless the burning treatment makes them magically a lot more attractive. At best it may only slightly extend the woods useful life or keep mold from appearing very soon. On the exterior of the EPS I am planning 1x4 furring on 16"c. Hardieboard Prevail panels 'Installation Requirement' sheet calls for a 'water resistive barrier' on the outside of the EPS below the furing strips. I recently chose an assembly very similar to yours for our house: sheathing, WRB, Rockwool, furring strips, and board and batten using HardiePanel. Although this project can be completed on your own, its usually best to have another person there with you. Yes, board and batten siding is relatively easy to install for those with experience in construction. Rigid mineral wool is somewhat squishy. Board and batten can appear rustic or modern, depending on its finish and how rough the lumber is. Looking at hardie clapboard siding installs in my area, the nailing is sometimes blind (under the following course) rather than through two layers, as people are suggesting here. The house will have doors and windows in a few weeks and then I can run a dehumidifer and dry the place out. The vertical board and batten look is achieved with 4' wide panels (8-10 feet tall), and covered by battens every 16" (or whatever your stud spacing is). This what I am planning: I will be using 3" EPS, on top of tyvec covered sheathing, on top of 2x4 framing on my home reno project. "}},{"@type":"Question","name":"Can you use pine for board and batten siding? A second issue is that the present popularity among designers for black houses is already waning. No issue. When I pulled the tarp back I had a nasty surprise. THanks! ","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"Its possible to use pine for board and batten siding, but its typically not recommended. ","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"After the top trim is installed, its time to attach the battens. "}},{"@type":"Question","name":"Can plywood be used for board and batten siding?","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"Yes! Adding a layer of Mineral Wool "boards" as exterior insulation/fire protection might also provide a drainage surface given its porous composition under furring strips. The screws to secure the furring strips through the 1.5 inches of rockwool are fancy and long fasteners (1.5+1.75+1 = 4.25 inches min). They say it will reduce the possibility of splitting and I'd also think that the cladding attachments may be more secure. Each page seems to be sending you to a different page before you can finish the sentence. ","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"While its not always necessary to nail board and batten siding into studs, its usually recommended. If youre using thin, lightweight lumber, you wont need to stress about it. That would still be 4 inch screws just to get furring strips installed. Butthat's a lot of ripping! I dont know if heat from the burn would affect the glue in the plywood in your case either. We also provide other types of services to improve your home exterior, including roofing and windows installation. I'd call their tech support and ask for clarification and reasoning. The workaround is to reply to the message it was in response to. I find their literature much harder to decipher than the Rockwool installation manual, which is amazing (more pictures, less numbers though). I have had huge success just doing my due diligence to dry things out but always use a shotgun approach to the treatment of rot because I take anything degrading my hard won building project very seriously. Thank you Trevor for that summary of the fastener specs from Hardie. I guess I don't have a sense yet whether nailing onto a 1.75" wide strip would be a challenge. None the less, permeable foam makes the assembly more robust. Just use vertical furring, one on each stud. The items youll need include: First, prepare the area by following these steps: Follow these steps to properly install the boards: If youre using any top trim, make sure its installed before starting with the battens. When it comes to the windows, measure and cut your boards to the size that will fit above and below them. Dust with Boric acid. We have plenty of experience when it comes to board and batten siding. I look forward to hearing from anyone with experience dealing with adequate furring strips over rockwool mineral board insulation, for hardie board. 4x10 panels are floppy in transport; once fastened, you have to try pretty hard to break one, even at 24" spacing. https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/homemade-mildew-preventers-that-really-work. Use epdm washers to hold rock wool in place before stapping. The steps to help calculate your board and batten spacing include: Yes! Are Expensive Building Components Necessary? When one builds the first thing one learns is there are a lot of trade offs! In the northwest we deal with a ton of moisture but also increased threat of fire in our longer hotter summers. I sided the shed in beveled cedar clapboards (included a rainscreen detail). I love how it looks, but it seems that the most pragmatic choice for my upcoming house is hardie board siding for both durability and fire resistance. Hmm. Thanks! Recipe here Not knowing your specific problem I cant even surmise how to advise and be of help. This could be a serious problem in the cold climate of Alberta, Canada. So, call one of your best friends or a loving family member, and then you can start. Here's the hardie tech bulletin #19 You must be a magazine subscriber to access this feature. 28% borax https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/exteriors/common-siding-failures_o. that details applying hardie over continuous insulation (including mineral wool). 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. This is fire/insect/rot resistant and lasts an incredible long time. Black painted houses can change colours. Board and batten siding is a beautiful option for your homes exterior. Keep away from pets and children. However, for everything else, its a good idea to attach your boards to the studs wherever possible. The moldy boards in question were left in my driveway covered by a tarp (my bad). I chose horizontal furring strips only, as I tend to agree with Martin and others that much of the benefit of a rainscreen can be achieved simply by having a reservoir of air behind the siding. And then from the hardie panel to the furring strip? If that requirement is in fact specific to that exact wall construction, then I don't know why they want that. Start at one corner of your house and make your way around. "}},{"@type":"Question","name":"Does board and batten have to go into studs? Said this is sometimes done in Alaska? Install the next boards the same way you installed the first one. Whether you wish to install board and batten siding on your home, cabin, or garage, you can rest easy knowing that you made a fantastic choice. If you haven't bought anything yet, and are doing a DIY (if that may void any Hardie warranty), also look into Nichiha and Allura panels if they are available at your local yards. I like the traditional way of nailing 1/3 of way up the board so as to allow for movement in each board. Battens should lap at least inch onto the boards on both sides to keep out moisture. (All building have some) Just because it has this finish does not mean the builders didnt keep in mind how to avoid moisture AND this did not mean the caretakers of the building just ignored routine inspection and maintenance. My wall construction is dissimilar to yours, so that particular issue did not come up. So a rainscreen is not considered essential here. Some are just better than others. Either option would probably less than 1/2 the cost of the mineral wool setup for same R value. You can use a piece of metal flashing for this. Not sure if they were assuming things and I didn't give enough information? Also, check out the Victoria illustrated guide to R22+ effective walls construction guide The longevity of the finish, and even whether you want to touch the boards, relies on sealing the surface and regularly re-coating. Also, adding 1.75 inch vertical furring strips over all studs, and having such a cavernous seeming rainscreen gap, annoys me. After that, you can begin installing the siding boards. I would not go down to 3/4" with rigid mineral wool as the adjustments are too fussy (fine if DIY but gets expensive you are paying for labor). Paula T, I have a home brew for insects/rodents/mold that I make also. I myself am planning a 2" mineral wool install and seems like people recommend different stud wood imbedment requirements. 2. Any ideas for how to get the rainscreen effect behind vertical boards, without excessive complexity or framing? Part of it I learned from a master boat builder and the antifreeze portion actually stabilizes the wood if you make enough applications on it to really soak it in. I am definitely sold on the rainscreen idea. With hardie board, I was told that 3/4 furring strips are adequate, but elsewhere I am seeing that 1 inch embedment into studs are required, so wondering what thickness furring strips I can get away with. Enjoy your new board and batten siding. I am in Eastern WA and this summer am planning to do 2" mineral wool with a rainscreen detail (1x4") with hardie panel with batten strips 16 OC. Serendipitously Eric Whetzel linked to his experience with Shou Sugi Ban today in another thread. I think you can back screws out or push in to create a flat plane, although it sounds finicky! Even though we try for perfection, there is no perfect building. There shouldn't be any issue using foam behind the rain screen. Now that youve finished learning about how to install board and batten siding, its time to get out there and get the job done. If you cant find a wall stud, use wood glue/liquid nails and a nail thats long enough to secure the wood to the wall. update: I decided against the continuous exterior insulation (detailing too complicated for my time frame/attention span/budget). Pour solution in to sealed garden sprayer.
I was planning on a 4 3/4" fastenmaster headlok screw but they seem to only make a 4 1/2" and 6" screw (2" stud imbedment + 2" for insulation + 3/4" furring = 4 3/4" ). Start at one corner of your house and make your way around. This will help the new siding sit flush against the walls. Hardie panel, as heavy as it seems, falls under the light weight cladding category. Maybe you could cheat with wood vertically on the studs then the plastic horizontally arranged to optimize the fastening purchase. Like all Eric's blogs it's worth a look. This often involves using materials native to the area. I think it mostly depends on the wood furring species you use + the fastener depth to hold the furring strip in place. Thanks. "}},{"@type":"Question","name":"How is spacing for board and batten siding calculated? Of course if I remove too much material I'm compromising the strength of the lumber. Sometimes these materials are less practical or are more expensive but just plain right for a particular application. But with the advantage that there'd be less flexing and a flatter surface to attach panels to. Multiply the number of battens by the batten width to get the total batten width. So the installation I was considering would leave the siding more than 3 inches away from the house. Your thoughts would be most welcome. The thing that bothers me about this is that the horizontal furring strips ruin the rainscreen effect behind the boards. I have an air gap but water could potentially collect and sit on the furring strips instead of running out of the wall cavity, right? You might want to choose another material thats longer-lasting.
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