(And my vintage Arpge collection is a totally different monster.) avoid direct eye contact. Galaad is classified on Fragrantica as an oriental woody, and is centered on leather and myrrh. So, here I go, I will start with Lanvin Scandal (1931), a leather chypre, the one that never received any reformulation/reissue. Akkad is not as rich or complex at Mitzah, and it lacks the latters quiet undertone of roses and spices, but it is a definite kissing cousin. Akkad truly was nice, I swear. Now the remaining mystery of this bottle is that I am not very sure whether its My Sin or Arpege (1927) for I have never smelled My Sin before, and the Internet told me it smells kind of like vintage Arpege. Soon, it is replaced by notes of fresh carrots and light roses on a white musk base. Sorry, if I were the professor, she failed the exam. Honestly, I think its the mere power of suggestion. Msg & data rates may apply. View, loc_en_US, sid_fresh-cream-spray-fragrance, prod, sort_[SortEntry(order=SUBMISSION_TIME, direction=DESCENDING)], bvseo_sdk, dw_cartridge, 18.2.0, p_sdk_3.2.0, notes of heliotrope, vanilla, whipped cream, macadamia nut, delight your senses with this deliciously sweet fragrance. Msg They gave Molecules a three star review, but Molecules was well known for having just one ingredient in the formula ISO E Super. In 1958, Crescendo debut. Out of the sixscents, vintage Arpege is the easiest to collect for Lanvin had sold thousands of truckloads of them. Just as I thought I could close the books, it threw a curve ball at me. If I sniff my arm with intense determination to find it somewhere, anywhere I tell myself that I can detect some lingering traces in tiny, random patches for another twenty minutes. Amouages Gold for MenSo rich, musky, powdery and opulent. from Philosophy at the cell number used when signing up. She told me that she wanted a bottle of Marc Jacob Daisy?, I said. Its like those two-faced duet by the same person she turns around and she becomes a he. I should note that the text copy for Nordstrom mentions orange blossom too, which I think is also in the perfume. And with each hour that passes, I fall more in love with this! The more important thing, however, is what no-one mentions: strawberries. Ill tell you one of the strange reasons why I started collecting vintage Lanvin perfumes about a year ago there were only sixto collect, which I thought was an easy thing to do and not too costly. I happen to like the sweet touch that carrots can bring and think it adds a little depth to the very predominant fruity aspects of the perfume. Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com.
Sorry, Ms. Shyamala Maisondieu, the nose of Lanvins Avant Garde (2011), your creationbelongs to the CommercialArt Museum, not the Avant Garde Museum, because it shocks no one (in fact, its quite a crowd pleaser), pushes no boundaries and repels no one in any elevator or restaurant. Perfumes - ISO E Super: Antiseptic Horror, Aphrodisiac Pheromone or Nothingness. The second time, I applied 2 sprays, and the perfume died after an hour and thirty minutes. Not for long, I started collecting vintage Arpge, and the snowball got bigger, as always. Smells like Turkish delight and its marvellous. *evil-eye*) Theres actually a Rumeur 2 Rose perfume, implying that Rumeur 1 was a commercial success to Lanvin. But maybe I was just overwhelmed by the overall unpleasantness of the skanky, raunchy leather. The perfume was inspired byA Tale of the Fountain of the Peach Blossom Spring where a fisherman follows the scent of peach blossoms and ends up in Utopia.
Not formal but full of personality. The avant-garde (from French, advance guard or vanguard, literally fore-guard) are people or works that are experimental or innovative, particularly with respect to art, culture, and politics. Seconds later, there is a dry undertone of some vaguely abstract, amorphous chypre element, but it is extremely faint. I loved Mitzah and its robust labdanum heart, intermixed with incense and other notes. Yes, that dude. Heres the moment when I realized I had accidentally stepped into aparallel universe. There are subtle elements of jasmine, but like the patchouli and vanilla of the opening minutes, its merely flickering at the outside edges. The big wave crests that Lanvin wanted Crescendo to make turned out to be ripples in a quiet pond, and in 1969, Lanvin discontinued it. It is supposed to be an entirely new take on Valentinos popular Valentina perfume but, according to its creator, the well-known Olivier Cresp, it is not a flanker. There is a definitely dirty, hippie, 70s feel to the smoky, leathered, animalic labdanum and patchouli combination, and it is the fundamental core of the perfume. The press release states: we now have a beautiful new mist spray (panache spray) bottle designed by the design legend Pierre Dinand. I got this bottle from eBay, and the seller wrote its a bottle of My Sin (1925) and its half-full. The most amazing smelling perfume. cart reminders) It is also very potent, yet when I am sleepless, I spray some on my pillow and I will be at peace. Very personal choice: 1. Whisky is one of them, in the form of a smooth, fragrant cream liqueur, accentuate by a counterpoint of oudh accord, which brings to mind dark caves where secrets lie hidden. [] In the Armorican countryside the Korrigans frolic at night. I want to put the paddles on this fragrance and shock it back to life. The perfume was created by Calice Becker and the full list of its notes, as compiled from both Fragrantica and LuckyScent, is as follows: White peach, carrot seeds, blackcurrant bud, freesia, iris, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and white musk. AGAIN.. WHERE HAVE I BEEN? For everyone else, you may enjoy Valentinos short behind the scenes clip for the campaign shot by David Sims and featuring the model, Freja Beha Erichsen, in a gorgeous backless Valentino dress. There is smoky cedar which appears and which slowly starts to muscle the strawberries to the side. And, even by the standards of mass-market fragrances, its a little boring. A very ambitious man, Lubin seemed to need more worlds to conquer and, in 1830, became the first perfume-maker to conquer the New World with perfumes that reached the banks of the Mississippi. 2. Its labdanum, light smoke and patchouli for hours.
It was so marvellous. The royal courts of Europe soon followed suit, from the King of England to the Tsar of Russia. That is what comes to mind when I wear, Flower of Immortality is an eau de parfum which will be released next week, in early April 2013, as the third in Kilians, In the U.S., Flower of Immortality is available for pre-order now on, The Average, The Banal, The Bad & The Ugly Lists, Perfume Review: Valentino Valentina Assoluto, Perfume Reviews: Lubin Galaad, Akkad & Korrigan, Perfume Review: By Kilian Flower of Immortality, By Kilian Flower of Immortality Perfume Review, New Perfume Releases: Neela Vermeire Crations, Balmain Vintage Jolie Madame Part II: Bottles & Packaging By Decade, Balmain Vintage Jolie Madame Part I: The EDT & Parfum, A Beginner's Guide To Perfume: How to Train Your Nose, Learn Your Perfume Profile, & More, Perfume Review - Tom Ford Private Blend Oud Wood: An Approachable Oud, Perfume Review - Tom Ford Private Blend Tobacco Vanille, A Guide to Vintage Shalimar - Part III: Bottle Designs, Dating Bottles & eBay Tips, Balmain Vintage Jolie Madame - Part I: The EDT & Parfum. The famous Parthenon in Athens is breathtaking, but you have to realize you are just looking at the columns of all there left behind. The daintiest of Chinese watercolours with sheer, minimalistic and translucent brush strokes. That unpleasantness goes away very quickly and suddenly it behaves like the parfum/extrait version, only smelling lighter and more animalic, probably of civet. When I die, I will be dowsed with this perfume. (I obviously dont listen to my own advice.). Robert Piguets CalypsoSuper powdery rose with a few drops of chypre. Seconds later, there is a fleeting touch of black currant (or cassis) with a touch of tart juiciness but it doesnt last very long. He had apprenticed under the perfumer who served Marie-Antoinette but this was a new political climate. ","val":"0.5 oz. Together they faced the world that was about to turn 80s with a new and modest, sleek, glossy black packaging. Msg & data rates may apply. on Lanvins Famous Perfumes from the 20th Century (Part1), on My 20 Favourite Perfumes in My Collection(2015), said that she liked light and fresh scents, You know, something that almost disappears when you are ready to leave the house. I almost spewed water from my nose. The opening of Rumeur doesnt smell very complicated to me fresh and fruity because of the aldehydes, light bergamot and creamy peach and jasmine. It is like Drambuies herbal, whisky liqueur with a definite cloying sweetness that verges on the synthetic. if a product has a frequency option, its available for auto-delivery. 17. All of this is going on simultaneously with very honeyed leather that seemed soaked in Irish whisky and a very strange herbal element. In 1958, Crescendo debut. The smooth and juicy scent of White Peach, interweaved by the sweet and powdery notes of Carrot and Iris.
(to be continued).
Fresh Cream is my favorite fragrance, clean not overly sweet or overpowering! Lubins Nuit de Longchamp Elegance, sophistication, retro; romancing on the balcony of a ballroom with giant fountains running down below. The mystery of a voluptuous chypre signature, fusion of patchouli, oakmoss and vibrant cedar wood. The base is cool leather with wood and tobacco (blond tobacco, Atlas cedar, agar oud). It is extremely straight forward without the twists and turns, but something about the simplicity of this fragrance is extremely ANGELIC and FULFILLING! fresh cream eau de toilette leaves skin with a delicately sweet scent, guaranteed to draw others closer yet never overwhelm.
Personally, I was disappointed by just how unremarkable it was; its not complex, nuanced, well-balanced, or long-lasting. Those who dont like labdanum with its dirty, masculine, nutty and, here, slightly animalic undertones may want to stay away from Akkad. Vintage perfumes, all have never stopped slow self-destructing, often are only left with middle and base notes; top notes such as citrus and aldehyde are gone, or even worse, spoiled. Chanels Bois Des Iles Sandalwood and aldehyde bomb. Macerated strawberries. And Im genuinely saddened by that. His own evolution from ruthless conqueror to benevolent emperor is reflected in Ashokas journey from the fierce opening to a softly floral heart & the gentle embrace of its richly complex drydown. I love creamy, warm, vanilla fragrances. I dont detect any iris at all in the perfume. Unfortunately, I far preferred the history to the new perfumes.
There is something odd about the smell that I really struggle to describe and cannot quite pinpoint. the philosophy auto-delivery program offers the convenience of having all your favorite shipped to you automatically, exactly when you want them on a schedule of your choosing. That was the goal for Akkad. The big wave crests that Lanvin wanted Crescendo to make turned out to be ripples in a quiet pond, and in 1969, Lanvin discontinued it. I almost shed a little tear when I first smelled it. Oriza Legrands Relique dAmourIt transports me to a different place of a different time. Instead, its supposed to be a new, smoldering seductive and nocturnal take on a chypre with only some of the original Valentinas facets and supposedly, none of the latters strawberry heart. Mind you, it is not a completist set, for Lanvin had released over 30 perfumes between 1923 and 1987 (and a hiatus of 13 years before they released Oxygene in 2000), sadly, most of them got discontinued and forgotten, and only a fewwere big hits and had sold well enough that you can still find them on eBay. 14. Anyways- 4. None of these notes change the simpleness of the basic scent: it feels as though I have the lightest veil of actual white peach juice on my skin, and not much else. Is a perfume without a base considered a failure? Before the Youtube reviews appeared, Avant Garde was readily available at my favourite online shop. Its very pleasant for what it is, but this is a not a complex fragrance by any stretch of the imagination. you may modify or cancel your auto-delivery program by updating your account information on philosophy.com or by calling our customer care at 1-800-568-3151. modifications or cancellations can be made at any time, provided your order is not already in process. Perverted and unforgettable. I know from past experience, I can only correctly guess 5%-10% of the notes of a perfume. So its actually quite agonizing due to the fact that I passed on purchasing this today. "},{"id":"4 oz. Its a different kind of sweetness than that cloying caramel, however, but I cannot explain it. There really isnt much more to say about the perfume. Flower of Immortality opens on my skin with the very sweetest of white peaches. 2002. But I would highly recommend testing it out on your skin before buying it blindly. JUST TODAY I am trying this out for the FIRST TIME! 7. 18. I have to give points for huge originality. I guess theres nothing to report here its a light fresh blueberry scent. Lanvins Arpege (Modern 1st reformulation)I will have a whole lot more to say about this perfume. At its final moments, Valentino Assoluto became a simple, light mix of woods with tiny touches of vanilla, patchouli and musk. The opposite therefore of the dark, mystical ambers that bring to mind the smoke of frankincense in ancient temples. [ They]know recipes for elixirs offered as libation at Beltane and Samhain, festivals to celebrate the change of seasons. In Turin/Sanchezs Perfumes book, Sanchez pulled the same stunt by writing something similar for Lanvin Rumeurs review. There is the muted hint of white musk and, like a ghost popping up every now and then, some extremely subtle touches of carrot. For me, analyzing a vintage perfume is both fun, humbling, and even humiliating. Longevity is its main problem though. Ever since the reviews, fewer and fewer were available (didnt happen to other perfumes that I paid attention to), until I found out they were sold out. Its so unexpected that I cant decide if I like it or not, but definitely I keep smelling it. What I find interesting is that I have witnessed a real-time social-media-influenced sales phenomenon happening in slow motion. That is what comes to mind when I wear Flower of Immortality, the new fragrance from the luxury perfume house, By Kilian. If you are reading this, 20 years or even 50 years from the day it is published, and are considering spending a lot of money on a vintage perfume from 1920s, not to collect, but to smell, to re-experience the golden days of perfumery, I suggest you dont. For a history geek like myself, it was all utterly fascinating. The sixscents are Mon Peche (or My Sin, 1925), Arpge (1927), Scandal (1931), Rumeur (1934), Prtexte (1937) and Crescendo (1965). Then, in dark caves, they distil barley into spellbinding spirits, spicing them with saffron, musking them with ambrette, scenting them with lavender. / 15 ml. But something is different in Crescendo if you pay a bit more attention to its floral part its sweeter, more tender and creamier, and a bit more uncommon and interesting.
(from Wikipedia). 3. But if you like extraordinarily sweet perfumes with a suddenly dry twist, if you prefer sugared skin scents, or if you loved the original, then you may want to give this one a try. An occasion of course to evoke the strong beverages of the somewhat bleak moors. Flower of Immortality is an eau de parfum which will be released next week, in early April 2013, as the third in Kilians Asian Tales series of perfumes which first launched in 2012. Valentina Assoluto was first launched in 2012 in Europe and the Middle East, but it is only now, in April 2013, being officially released in the U.S. All-in-all, its a decent modern designer scent, but what I find so interesting is not what it smells like, nor its nicebottle. Click to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. He also detected oud in the perfume; I did not. During the solstice festivals, they all drink their elixirs out of leather pouches, causing bodies and souls to capsize. Notes:Cardamom, cypress, rosemary, myrrh, honey, copahu balm, Agar oud, Atlas cedar, cipriol, blond Burley tobacco.
(I thought they were a bit more exotic for a perfume released in the 1960s, but Houbigants Quelques Fleurs in 1913 had all the flowers mentioned above. Luminous amber. As the Lubin website explains: A Korrigan is a small mythical creature that haunts the moors of Brittany, Ireland, Scotland and Wales, whisking us away to the folklore and legends of Celtic civilisation. It seemed to me that Lanvin was trying to make it another hit to join the classic five, but it had never succeeded. frequency varies. So in front of me is a bottle of Lanvin ME (2013). Assuming the formula and the quality of the materials used have never changed, I suggest getting the ones with black labels (only apply to Arpge, My Sin and Remuer) because they smell freshest. That scary. My hubby always says I smell good! To ensure that you never run out of your favorite product, simply select the desired size, quantity and delivery frequency, then add to your shopping bag. condition of any purchase. 19. Yes.
The whole thing is extremely light and surprisingly sheer given the heaviness of the initial sugary notes. Helmut Langs Eau de Cologne I should have picked Guerlains Habit Rouge, but this smells more sophisticated to me, still, its a lemon baby powder scent that I cant get enough of. With frankincense, cypress and dried grass from Atlantis, we refine the precious balm used by the lords of the East to perfume themselves. When in doubt, I wear this perfume. on all orders $50+, special The wood notes are also a bit odd. One time I tried to return a full bottle of perfume (in an opaque bottle), and the salesman shook the bottle to gauge how much was left. At the very end, it turns into a very light amber with a sort of caramel, butterscotch undertone and with a hint of vanilla.
The odd combinations and Korrigans cloying sweetness also leave me feeling distinctly queasy. Korrigan opens on my skin as caramel-infused wood with a herbaceous undertone. Neela Vermeire Crations, Paris has some surprises in store for us. Flower of Immortality was composed as the memory of the utopian paradise, where the fragrance of peach blossoms brings a promise of hospitality and immortality. Whats going on? But Galaad no, I really wouldnt recommend it. Love this. on Lanvins Famous Perfumes from the 20th Century, Part 4 Rumeur. Middle:Essence of Cardamom, Elemi, Frankincense, Styrax. Akkad amber opens with an aromatic citrus head note of mandarin and bergamot, enhanced by Clary sage. They come to harvest juniper berries and wild beechnuts. Estee Lauders Youth DewSmells like an incense temple in Hong Kong to me. 12. I had great hopes for Lubins trio of orientals but, alas, ultimately, none of them really blew me over. I love Arpege, and I think I should also love her extended family despite some of them are only as interestingas a pumpkin. 20 minutes in, Im smelling basenotes as if the perfume had been applied three days ago and this is all that remains. I have two versions of Prtexte extraits, one that comes in a 1oz bottle with a silver label (1940s) and little samples with gold labels that indicates they are from the 1960s. It hovered a few inches above the skin for about an hour, became close around the 3 hour mark, and then died altogether after about 5.5 hours. I have no idea if that last part of biographical past was embellished a little bit but, frankly, I didnt care one whit. I have to admit, I find the whole thing incredibly odd. Etat Libre dOranges Archives 69Cherry lollypop that I cant stop sucking. They shone for a brief moment, and as quickly disappeared. Source:PeaceAndLoveInTheKitchen.com. Reply HELP for help and STOP to cancel. Im sorry I cant explain its development better to you, but some discordant aspect of this perfume leaves me absolutely stumped. Korrigan is therefore a fragrance to accompany Dionysian rites. Much stronger is the patchouli and an undertone of vanilla. ","val":"2 oz.
First of all, there are quite a few vintage perfumes not yet recorded on Fragrantica.com, the encyclopedia of perfumes and their respective notes breakdown. The press release states: Inspired by a legendary ruler, Neela Vermeire Crations new release, Ashoka, is a tribute to an emperor who was conquered by his own compassion at the moment his victory was assured. For one thing, Im not familiar with a plethora of strawberry fragrances. It is the key note of the original Valentina and, to my nose, is also a big part of the Assoluto sequel. The perfume lasted just over 7.5 hours with generally soft to low sillage throughout. The opening, just the first few seconds, really, is absolutely horrendous band-aid, plasticky and chemical. The EDT version on the other hand, smells a bit different. At the same time, there is a hint of dry tobacco that almost evokes the pages of a very ancient manuscript. Delphine Thierry, who created Galaad, invites us to a tranquil morning ride in the mountains of the Middle East, when the scents of myrrh bushes blend with cypress resins and the woody fragrance of cedars. Sitting next to me was a woman in her early forties, and I asked her if she liked perfumes. Id dare to say overall Prtexte smells richer and creamier than Arpge, but it doesnt have the signature abstract floral uniqueness that Arpge possesses.
Because of that, the whole composition smells mildly metallic throughout the scent development. I ascribe that to the cipriol which is another name for papyrus grass. It will come in the original flacon in amethyst glass with a special panache spray., Lastly, it seems that all the current perfumes will be offered in a new bottle design. Even I cant pull it off because its so womanly but that makes me love it more. spray onto a clean, dry body.
promotional and personalized marketing text messages (e.g. alcohol denat., aqua/water/eau, parfum/fragrance, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bht. Heres the moment when I realized I had accidentally stepped into a, Lanvins Famous Perfumes from the 20th Century, Part 5 Crescendo, Lanvins Famous Perfumes from the 20th Century, Part 4 Rumeur, Lanvins Famous Perfumes from the 20th Century, Part 3 Prtexte, Lanvins Famous Perfumes from the 20th Century, Part 2 Scandal, Lanvins Famous Perfumes from the 20th Century (Part1), My 20 Favourite Perfumes in My Collection(2015), The Stories Behind Zoologist Perfumes (Part5), The Stories Behind Zoologist Perfumes (Part4), The Stories Behind Zoologist Perfumes (Part3), The Stories Behind Zoologist Perfumes (Part2), The Stories Behind Zoologist Perfumes (Part1), Zoologist Perfumes Facebook Page (Please Like!). According to Wikipedia, Emperor Ashoka played a critical role in making Buddhism a world religion. Very ironic. I swear it smells like peaches, but it must be my imagination. The story behind Galaad involves the Balm of the Sacred Mountain, the Arthurian knight, and the most precious of the Holy Lands ingredients: Out of Egypt come caravans to fetch myrrh in my land of Galaad. Its something that I cant quite describe. The specific goal of perfumer Thomas Fontaine was to create, in the words of the Lubin website, Caramel Wood Liqueur.Luckyscent provides the following notes for the perfume: Juniper berry, saffron, cognac, Lavender, ambrette, whiskey, Cedar, oudh, leather, vetiver, musk. I suspect fans of the original Valentina might like this one, since a few comments on Fragrantica lead me to believe they are extremely similar for the most part. His Oud perfume from his own line, costs f*king $450 a bottle. It is a simple, uncomplicated, fruity-floral scent which is pretty but alarmingly evanescent and not just for my skin. Only much, much skankier. Valentina Assoluto is barely floral and has little to no earthy truffle, fresh citrus, or pungent oakmoss.
The problem is that Akkad (like its siblings) costs $180 for a 3.4 oz/100 ml bottle, when the Dior Mitzah that I prefer costs $155 for a 4.25 oz/125 ml bottle. I didnt get any joy smelling it on myself, but I want to smell it on someone else, particularly a young woman with long hair, who also thinks this perfume is light, and she over-applies it, making herself a beast. I tried Galaad twice to be sure and, the second time, it was even more rank on me with a skanky, fecund undertone that evoked unwashed private parts. Clary sage, also known as the sacred herb, is renowned for its euphoric, harmonizing properties. That was, I think, 25 years ago. If only the perfume smelled that way. Notes: A quick summary, Scandal to me is an incense leather perfume. The true spirit of Rumeur did not live on, but its name did in 2006, Lanvin launched a completely new perfume and named it Rumeur again. But, on my skin, none of those things happened on both occasions that I tested the perfume. Even if you are handed the original formula listing all the ingredients, I doubt one can imagine with precision what that freshly made perfume smells like because smells are not visuals. Its beautiful and fresh and new and old. It reminds me of Chanels Cuir de Russie, but with richer, sharper, more aged leather, and a smoky, mildly sweet (vanilla) and mildly white floral middle notes (probably iris, ylang and some rose). Kiehls Original MuskSmelling flowers next to a monkey cage, and the perfume that inspired me to create my own Zoologist Perfumes brand. Lubin soon won favour with Napoleons Imperial court and his scents were beloved by both Empress Josephine and Napoleons influential sister, Pauline. Its more baseless than baseless, its negative baseless, so I guess that makes it positive.
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