And that sounds completely rational and certainly should be If we could go back in time and change one thing, I think that might be the thing I change: that shareholder capitalism didnt ever take off. Her perceptive nature and sharp wisdom shined quickly, comforting nerves I had about using our time well with my questions. There are car companies like River Simple, which is based in Whales in the UK, which designed a car specifically so that it can be taken apart and re-made over time. Photos of the Costumes in Westworld SeasonFour. You could also argue that the kind of companies that are social enterprises now are focused not just on one aspect of their business but on all aspects of their business and how it performs. kresse cycled recycled We never set out to start a vegan company, but it just so happens that fire hose is a vegan material. Kresse said, When designers from Burberry visit the room, their experience is profound as the challenge and scale of the problem of waste becomes real to them..

Excited to take them up on their offer FashNerd Editor-in-chief Muchaneta suggested that I go, and in a heartbeat, I happily accepted. WASTE TIME: In a bid to tackle the problem of leather waste, the Burberry Foundation has inked a five-year partnership with the London-based accessories brand Elvis & Kresse that will see at least 120 tons of leather offcuts from Burberry factories made into new products, WWD has learned. Kresse was indeed right that this process is an evolution that requires action a lot of action every day and your very first idea will rarely be the one that works. (I wish everyone could have the privilege to hear this womans beautiful accent and the lighthearted way she conveyed her endlessly infallible points.). Why dont we have that kind of system everywhere? A lot of people who argue very binary terms tend to overlook the complexity. She is open to the idea of setting up an Elvis & Kresse India in partnership with local leather business. Youd have to take your goods to a certification body and theyd have to say, Yap, you dont pay people well enough and youre destroying the environment. I wanted to turn my crochet beachwear into a zero waste and philanthropic brand for the environment and firefighters in CA and I was beginning to reach more awesome people working on similar missions but not many, and none quite like what I was seeing for the first time here. And actually, there are companies like {Fairphone}, which are designing their technology so that it can be repaired, so that items can be upgraded and so that the materials can be harvested for reuse. When I first came to the UK, I was interested in all waste, not just fire hose. This is a flat earth issue. There was so much factory output that you couldnt see the sun. The human beings I find the most confusing are the ones who have had the benefit of an amazing education, the benefit of travel and they still dont get it. Its difficult. Then you go to a place where its devastation and you think, oh my goodness, whats happening here!. I was ushered into what is called as the leather room and suffice it to say that it was a unique experience to encounter three days worth of the iconic brands leather waste. Truly a cutting edge company (pun intended), Elvis & Kresse has a heart and a soul, challenging the growing sustainability issues of a fickle fashion industry, while incorporating innovative craftsmanship, by employing the skills of craftsman and training apprentices. Then there are people whose lives are so hand to mouth so they dont necessarily have the opportunity for that. Burberry said even when patterns are carefully planned to maximize the hide, the process inevitably creates small offcuts. Conducting this interview was one of my first journalistic experiences in a flurry of opportunity that unfolded in the early spring of 2021. He made the first bags. Yes, my first business that I set up was biodegradable packaging. Even unwanted shoe boxes collected from shoe shops are flattened and used to make packaging and labels. As we continued to talk, I was served herbal tea. But as you say, the microplastic issue remains. When asked about washing bags like the Guppy Friend bags, which are sold in shops like Brooklyns Package Free and supposedly catch microfibers from synthetic clothing in the wash, Kresse was skeptical: Theres some evidence to suggest that [the Guppy washing bag] doesnt work brilliantly well Maybe theyve updated it. To wit, the entrepreneurial duo decided to salvage these discarded life-saving fire hoses from landfills, and together with utilizing reclaimed leather they recycle and re-engineer waste materials creating a collection of bags, accessories and home goods. By staying open, by growing over the last 13 years we have proven that materials rescue can succeed as a business, that is how we can have a lasting impact, beyond Elvis & Kresse. 2022 Fairchild Publishing, LLC. So (laughing) we should be able to sort this out! But instead of letting the fabric head to the landfill, the brand realized its potential as a, lining for their fire-hose bags and wallets. I hadnt seen shopping on that scale. ORDRE is now available in the following languages: Elvis & Kresse has been redefining luxury by transforming landfill waste into accessories since 2005. Its one of those situations where your eyes open up a bit wider, and then a bit wider, and a bit wider, (laughing) and then you just start to worry that youre gonna lose your mind. To minimise the risk of impulse buys and buyers remorse, products are never offered at discounted prices.

Weve done a few [projects] like that [leather movie set wall]. You know, there are other ways to do it. The second pillar that Elvis & Kresse stands behind is transform. We will see something that no one else has seen and well be relentless in solving that problem., This is exactly what is missing: a biodiversity that allows big brands to live alongside and help to promote the wellbeing of smaller brands., Around four years ago, when the Burberry Foundation approached Elvis & Kresse to help solve their excess leather issue, the pair deemed it a challenge too great. I could also go back in time and ensure that teachers were well-paid, that we attracted the best talent to that industry and had a more educated population. Even so, Kresse insists that machines wont take over their artisanal approach to business. Elvis & Kresse, set up in 2005, has become known for rescuing Londons decommissioned fire hoses from the landfill. In addition to the fire hoses and parachutes, Elvis & Kresse have learned to rework materials like printing blankets, coffee and tea sacks, shoe boxes and auction banners. There isnt really that much money floating around in that space. Burberry said Elvis & Kresse is able to transform the fragments into components, which are then handwoven into a new kind of hide. Ready To Push The Boundaries of Social Commerce? How badass!). Were supposed to be really creative and wonderful, intelligent beings. There are all kinds of ways that any company could do this, but in our case it was very slow and very organic. And that would mean that companies couldnt greenwash. With philanthropy always in mind, 50% of the profits will be donated to charitable organizations that support renewable energy. And you have politicians who then highlight that .1% without a population of critical thinkers who can go, No. B-Corps are quite different, Kresse explained. If we had done any of those, then we would be in the building industry or something else. When it comes to leather alternatives, theyre all polymers. We had to explain to people why rescued material made more sense than a new material. But we still have that .1% of people who seem to have, in some places, an equal platform. After several prototypes, he came up with three shapes. She took me to the table where lego-like shapes of leather scraps were being assembled to create a new hide. I learned the same thing growing up in California, so that really touched my heart. Everything can be interesting! Something went wrong. But equally if youre swimming in it, its going to be shedding [microscopic plastic fibers which harm the environment] while youre swimming.. Its been a very slow and gradual process. . However, the big one was still around the corner. What was your experience in Hong Kong that had such an impact or transformed your thinking?. Tags: burberry, elvis & kresse, leather, recycling. From fire hoses, the pair began scouring landfill sites to salvage parachute silk, auction banners, printing blankets and tea and coffee sacks discarded products which have been given new life lining bags or packaging products. Youre living in a country where theres two sets of reality happening in parallel. Defected and worn-out printing blankets from the off-set printing industry are turned into new (vintage) raw material. Finland, for example, is a country where being a teacher is this revered profession and theyre paid very well; they also have the highest levels of educational attainment. I think people who argue very binary terms tend to overlook the complexity. Yes. The final pillar is donate. In addition to the upcycling process, the brand donates 50% of its profits to charities like the Firefighters Charity, WWF, Help for Heroes, Comic Relief and the British Forces Foundation. She informed that the pricing is based on labour costs and emphasised on paying handsome wages to her craftsmen. Fashion Brands, Ready for a One-stop Guide To Accelerate Your Sustainable Transformation with Digital Traceability? But if you retain the individual components, you retain value. Elvis & Kresse are also a Social Enterprise in the UK. I would talk to people about the idea and the importance of using waste. The stated aim is to utilise at least 120 tonnes of leather off-cuts left from the production of Burberry products into new luxury accessories and homeware. The brand is guided by their three pillars: rescue, transform and donate. Sharing alarming stats Kresse took me on a walkabout of the workshop before we sat down in the office space for a chat while Elvis could be heard in the background, discussing and negotiating projects on the phone. Small Action Co. yarn will be available for makers this August 2022 at Knits & Knots Tahoe in South Lake Tahoe, CA and Knit & Knots Minden in Minden, NV. There are differences, but I would say the Social Enterprise movement and the B-Corp movement are very parallel. We spent two years just trying to work out the best way to work together, explains Wesling. Its a certification that looks at 5 aspects of what you do: (You receive points based on how your business behaves and have to receive a minimum level of points in order to be certified as a B-corp. Every time you re-certify, youre also expected to have an increasing number of points. But it doesnt have coral or sharks because the water is so polluted that sharks cant hunt; they cant sense things. Conversation With the Team Behind Third Generation Revolutionary Innovation The Hvding. At that point, you have to realize, we had been running Elvis & Kresse for quite a while and we had a good reputation for solving the fire hose problem. These are high-quality, unused, freshly tanned and dyed leathers, but they fall to the workshop floor as seemingly unusable pieces, and are later destroyed. Ill never forget, and certainly Elvis will never forget when I brought the first shipment of biodegradable packaging to the UK and it biodegraded on the way here. View cart for details. Not everything is a success, but everything can be something you learn from. On building (and re-claiming) a leather wall for a Nashville hotel and Universal movie set: The one that we got back was in a movie that came out last year. Our system is labour intensive, and we are proud of the many ways that it can create meaningful, living wage employment., In comparison, their fire hose phase seems like a trickle, when they handled 3 to 10 tonnes of firehouse in a year. After they identified the issue, they moved on to creating products. I mean, why havent we since Rio? Tomorrow you could go to the B-Lab website, put in your email address and go through the assessment. When the practice of dead stock destruction hit headlines around the world this year, after Burberrys 2017 annual report revealed the British heritage brand had burnt 28 million worth of unsold goods, what went largely unreported by the media was the fact that Burberry had been publicly sharing this information and working diligently to find a solution for years. Barbie x Balmain: Taking A Bet that NFTs Are A Powerful, Fashion Brands, Ready for a One-stop Guide To Accelerate Your Sustainable, Dyeing Innovations Disrupting the Fashion Industry, Yes, Luxurious Cactus Leather is Still A Thing, Pangaias Quirky Invention Utilizes Pollution to Create an End Product, Deep Science x High Design: Bolt Threads Joins Forces With Iconic, How Smart Clothing Poses an Answer to Social Challenges, If You Could Change Your Body As Easily As You Would, Fight Depression, Anxiety, or Stress With These 5 Wearable Gadgets, Bellabeats Unique Approach to Womens Wellness is Powered by User Data. Reports suggest textile waste that gets thrown away has a value of 2 to 3 thousand dollars a tonne. The Metaverse Standards Forum, There Might Be Way To Reduce the Environmental Impact of the, A Technology that Drives Inclusivity and Diversity within Digital Fashion. Fur-Free baby, its about time - Just Max Theyre all big problems and theyre complicated, but there are billions of us.

Or Victoria, British Columbia, which is this absolute haven for eco people on Vancouver Island, yet most of its sewage just goes out into this mile-long pipe that takes it out into the sea. It was called Bio Supplies and it was in direct response to what we saw happening in Hong Kong. And 50% of your profits have to be redistributed. I have city friends who are vegan, and a couple told me they felt that [in order to live in integrity with their values regarding animal abuse across industries] they needed to avoid leather not buy it and not even own it anymore. Learn on the go with our new app. The rest of them have an absolutely horrible existence, and their sewage creates downstream environmental disasters. They wanted to know when we were going to produce different colourways, and we realised their business model didnt match our ethics, Wesling explains. We brought home our first fire hose to a house share where we were living in Brixton. New compass scores food, guides consumer choices. The food system is incredibly complicated. Elvis & Kresse pledges to donate 50% of its profits to charities.

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