lk BTW, lye is not something new.

We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Has to be combined with other preservatives. It's a common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together. A preservative that works mainly against fungi. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. Yes, its soap. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Leave-on liquid face exfoliator decongests down to the pores to reveal fresh, soft skin and a clarified looking complexion for a fresh glow every day. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula. In larger concentration (>10%) it's a proven collagen booster. Its a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. Its a humectant meaning that it can help the skin to attract water and then hold onto it. Butylene glycol, or lets just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. A study shows that it can reduce the irritation caused by less-nice other ingredients (e.g. As you might guess from the pro part, its a precursor to vitamin B5 (whose fancy name is pantothenic acid). It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin. It works mainly against fungi. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Its an ingredient whose safety hasnt been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). A helper ingredient that helps to makethe products stay nice longer, aka preservative. Good old water, aka H2O. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. As for the hair the hydration effect is also true there. Its main job in skincare products is to moisturise the skin. Thanks. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or less.

The unfancy name for it is lye. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. The most common skincare ingredient of all. An easy-to-formulate, commonly used, nice to have ingredient thats also called pro-vitamin B5.

Panthenol might make your hair softer, more elastic and helps to comb your hair more easily. is drying. Pro-Vitamin B5 is a goodie that moisturises the skin, has anti-inflammatory, skin protecting and wound healing properties. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. The most researched and well-known AHA exfoliant. Lye - A solid white stuff thats very alkaline and used in small amount to adjust the pH of the product. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. Neutrogena Skin Perfecting Oily Skin Liquid Facial Exfoliant. A study shows that a nail treatment liquide with 2% panthenol could effectively get into the nail and significantly increase the hydration of it. Its pH dependent and works best at acidic pH levels (3-5). A real oldie but a goodie. If that wasnt enough panthenol is also useful in nail and hair care products. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. Cocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Read all the geeky details about Glycolic Acid here >>, A natural moisturizer thats also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, Its the most researched AHA with the most proven skin benefits, It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin, It can help skins own collagen production that results in firmer, younger skin, It can fade brown spots caused by sun damage or PIH, Choose a product where you know the concentration and pH value because these two greatly influence effectiveness, Dont forget to use your sunscreen (in any case but especially so next to an AHA product), Slight stinging or burning with a stronger AHA product is normal, If your skin is very sensitive, rosacea prone choose rather a BHA or PHA product. There is also research showing that panthenol can help our skin to produce more lovely lipids that are important for a strong and healthy skin barrier. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. Probably thats why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. BGs main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. An error has occurred. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. Research also shows that it might be useful for wound healing as it promotes fibroblast (nice type of cells in our skin that produce skin-firming collagen) proliferation. fragrance, preservatives or chemical sunscreens) in the product. Its a solid white stuff thats very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. Another great thing about panthenol is that it has anti-inflammatory and skin protecting abilities. Its not strong enough to be used in itself so its always combined with something else, often with potassium sorbate. An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. Its mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. Please try again later! Can you guess what? Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) BTW, its also a food additive. Sodium hydroxide in itselfis a potent skin irritant, but once it's reacted (as it is usually in skin care products, like exfoliants) it is totallyharmless. Skin Perfecting Oily Skin Liquid Facial Exfoliant.

Super common little helper ingredient thathelps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time.

Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water.

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